SAHRA SAEEDA'S JOURNEY THROUGH EGYPT: FROM THE PAST TO THE FUTURE AND BEYOND...

 Sahra Saeeda is an international treasure, one of the grande dames of oriental dance. She is to Egyptian dance what Howard Carter and his discovery of King Tut's tomb were to the world of archaeology.

She’s taught and inspired thousands of dancers all over the globe during the course of her incredible career.  She is a generous and giving instructor, passionately sharing wealth of knowledge of raqs sharqi and Egyptian folklore, in both her international dance workshops as well as her popular four -part intensive, Journey Through Egypt, which she also presents around the world.  Her incredibly elegant, soft and thoroughly Egyptian style of belly dance is gorgeous, and she performs with command and grace, reflecting an almost otherworldly passion for the dance that is extremely rare. She has always been a huge influence on me, not only as a baby dancer, but also to this very day…and I’m sure many other dancers can say the same thing!

  Sahra is quite possibly one of the world’s leading authorities on Egyptian dance, and her position is unique: though scholarly and thorough in her approach, her writing and field research is never dry or boring because she adores her work.  And unlike almost any other scholars, Sahra didn’t just study the dance in its myriad forms, she lived it.

Sahra at UCLA with Mahmoud Reda & Farida Fahmy

  She is one of a small handful of foreign dancers to have really “made it” in Egypt, becoming a star.  In 1983, a fortuitous chance meeting with The Reda Troupe’s legendary diva Farida Fahmy at UCLA’s Dance Ethnology Masters program where they were both studying, lead to a longstanding and close friendship, which ultimately facilitated Sahra’s move to Cairo.

 Sahra recalls,

“I was doing my Masters Theses on the zeffah – the Egyptian bridal procession- and was asking questions but getting all sorts of different answers. When I asked (Farida Fahmy) about this, she asked me if I knew what cities, villages or areas the people I was talking to were from; or if knew anything about their class, socio-economical group, or that sort of thing.  She told me that the only way I would really find out the answers was to come to Egypt…so I did!”

Sahra with Sayyed Al Joker, in the Le Meriedien days

  In 1989, Sahra departed for Egypt, on what was supposed to be a three month long research trip. Instead, from an audition Fahmy set up, Sahra wound up living and working in Cairo for nearly six years, performing nightly at the chic Le Meridien Hotel doing countless shows with her own orchestra and back up dancers.

  As if that wasn’t enough of an accomplishment on it’s own, in between rehearsals and shows, she used her time to put her extensive scholarly background in Athrolopology and Dance Ethnology to work.   Throughout the years, Sahra’s creative output has been as significant as it is prolific- there are few artists whose body of work can compare to hers. Aside from making terrific performance  & instructional videos and recording music CDs while in Cairo, she also did extensive field research, filming all over Egypt.

Saidi Wedding, shot during a JTE research trip

 Journey Through Egypt is based on her work, study and lifestyle, and has been an absolute must for dancers of all levels for years. Recently, JTE has gone online, providing a much-needed resource   for dancers who really want to understand where these unique folkloric traditions stem from.

 And even more recently, Sahra has started a Kickstarter fundraiser to convert her   extensive library of over thirty years worth research to digital file before they disintegrate- and so they can be put on line.  She has hundreds of audio cassettes and video tapes to digital, so they can be put online, preserved as a resource for anybody- dancers, musicians, scholars, costumers, dance aficionados- to study and enjoy into the future.

“During my time in Egypt, I sought out people to interview about the various dances found throughout the country and more…. from stars to  “lower class” dancers- it doesn’t matter to me, it’s all valid, and all of it needs to be preserved!”,
Sahra says. Taking a breath, she continues,
“Recently I rounded up all of the old tapes that had been scattered about my office and storage unit and my assistant and I found over two hundred cassette tapes packed with research footage on the various dance zones of Egypt!”

Sahra with superstar Fifi Abdou, Cairo, 1990's

There are books in the works, too, which will be presented in both online and hardcopy format.

“ The way I am doing the series of books is similar to my Zeffah Primer. It will be a series, with each book about fifty pages,” she says,

 “The first "volume" of each region will be an overview of the area and the dances within it.  I like to structure my research this way:

1. To note which dances are of the indigenous (non-professional) population in their daily lives

 2. The local professional dancers & musicians and how they dance

 3. How the regional group represents the dances of each area of the country

 4. How Mahmoud Reda and the Reda Troupe represent this region's dances on the theatrical stage

 5. The way the Kowmeyya Troupe does the same

 6. How Cairo entertainers (particularly belly dancers) represent each region’s dances in the professional context of their shows. “

 Though this is a massive undertaking, clearly Sahra is more than enthused   to continue   her important work, her life’s work. The incredible response to her Kickstarter funding project has been more than she could have ever hoped for.

“ Now I can keep returning to Egypt to do even more research!”                               

Bedoiun girls from the Siwa Oasis

  She adds, “And I can also hire a professional videographer and sound person, instead of taking film on my crappy little camera, with the sounds getting drowned out by Cairo traffic! I’ve secured a fantastic interpreter from Aswan who used to work with National Geographic, too!’

 She stops for a moment before admitting,

“I’m so overwhelmed an honored that I get to do this… we’ve reached above and beyond even our Stretch Goals, and everyone has been so generous…. the comments and the things people are saying…well, I’ve actually been sitting here crying with happiness for the past three days!”

 If you would like to make Sahra cry even harder- and help preserve the history of our art for future generations by contributing to this important project, please visit this link, which will be live for only FIVE MORE DAYS:

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/421917208/journey-through-egypt-dance-archive

Keep up with all of the news on Sahra’s JTE Facebook Page here:

https://www.facebook.com/JtE.Egypt

 

In Situ: Sahra in Aswan, Egypt, 2013

EMAN UNVEILED: A LOOK BEHIND THE SCENES AT THE ATELIER-AND LIFE-OF EMAN ZAKI

 EMAN UNVEILED

 I wrote this story in Cairo, in 2009 as an exclusive for  belly dance publication The Chronicles. Since that was the only place it had ever been published, I thought I’d share it with you, dear readers...enjoy!

 Madame  Eman Zaki is one of the top costumers in the world of Oriental Dance …or perhaps, in the world, period. The name Eman means as much to dancers as   Dolce  & Gabbana or Prada does among a group of serious fashionistas.

 Her designs are fabulous, opulent, and well constructed. Whether the design is a forward-thinking, daring trend-setter or something classic that harks back to the glamour of bygone era, Eman’s costumes are works of art that are uniformly glorious. They are not cheap, but considering the workmanship and beauty, are worth every penny!

Eman today, photo by Tracy Gibbs

Eman’s works of art feature sumptuous hand work, gleaming Swarovsky crystals and amazing draping, which follows the contours of the female body, moves well in performance, and flatter dancers of all shapes and sizes.

Mentioning Eman’s name to a group of belly dancers is likely to start an hour-long conversation full of wishful sighs  and covetous declarations; even dyed-in-the-wool Tribal and Fusion dancers have been caught  red-handed in the act of drooling over one!

Always a fan of Eman’s designs, I owned quite a few before I actually met her. Over the years, we have met at festivals In Egypt and The UK, but belly dance events being what they are, we basically exchanged pleasantries, guzzled coffee and talked shop. It was only a few years ago that we really shared some quality time and got to know each other.

Through the “belly dance grapevine” I had heard  that Eman  and her sister Hoda      ( also an amazing costumer) had been performers before becoming costume designers. In 2009, at Ahlan WA Sahlan in Cairo, Eman broke her “dance silence” and taught a workshop on Golden Age technique and choreography. Intrigued, I signed up for the class immediately and was literally blown away. She bloomed, she shone, and she lit up the entire room and looked so beatifically happy that her enthusiasm was contagious. Her obvious love of the dance, her musical interpretation, innate talent and artistry were so completely evident, that I became totally obsessed with finding out more about her life in general as well as her previous dance career. We made a date to chat at her Dokki atelier, a place I’d already visited numerous times as a customer.

 There is no way to accurately describe the glittery chaos that is Eman Zaki’s atelier, but I will try. The moment the door opens, one is met with a splendid, sparkly sensory overload. Bolts of shiny fabric are lined up against the walls and stuffed into crevices behind doors, dressmaker mannequins draped with material stand in corners; costumes in various states of completion cover every available surface. Finished pieces with dancers names and addresses pinned to them sit in plastic bags piled on the floor.  There are usually at least three dancers being fitted simultaneously, as well as someone waiting for a wholesale order. Little children run through the atelier shrieking, as older kids working as runners arrive, delivering bottled water, soda and cigarettes. Groups of veiled women work at long tables...and couches... and the floor, furiously beading and sewing rhinestones to costume pieces. Eman’s brother and business manager Ali wanders around, the land-line phone glued to his ear; Eman’s sisters Hoda and Nadia are cutting fabric.  Sara Farouk, an English ex-pat and Eman’s trusted right hand, fields numerous cell-phone calls with a mouth full of pins, as she types furiously at the computer.

Eman Zaki in the 1970's

Eman leads me into her parlor, closing the French doors to signal Do Not Disturb and she, Sara and I sit down to chat over a light lunch and some very strong tea, trying to stick to a chronological order.

Eman quite literally has dancing in her blood- and not just because she is Egyptian!  She and her sisters Hoda and Nadia grew up with Oriental dance- their mother, Samira Zad, had been a well-known performer in the 1940’s.     

“My mom was famous” Eman says,

 “She traveled all over to dance! When we were children, we watched old movies on TV, and she would tell us about Samia Gamal, talk with all her love about dancing, then get up and show us a step. She advised us about training.  She was very happy when Hoda and I became dancers, she told us about the importance of training and advised me. My mother told me to hold the music into my heart, and also that the positions of the arms were very important.  She was especially proud when we performed in front of her and did well.”

  Following in their mother’s footsteps, Hoda turned professional in 1975, and Eman, using the stage name Mayssa, (because, as she says,  “My name Eman is something about religion”) began her career in March of 1977.

 “My first contract was in Syria, I was 18 years old. Hoda had started in Egypt, already, and when I began dancing, we would travel together, dancing all over the world.”

 

Hoda Zaki onstage, 1975

Eman’s career dancing abroad ended when she divorced her husband, who had a hotel in Dubai. Her agent didn’t want to make her ex-husband angry, and so she returned to Cairo.

“In Cairo,” Eman says,

“ I worked at the Grand Hyatt (now the Meridien) and was contracted there to replace Nagwa Fouad there for six months.”

 She decided to make the transition to working as a costumer in the late 1980’s, after she had been dancing for about a decade.

“During that time, I wasn’t happy”, Eman remembers,

 “ Because dancers need to hire their own bands, provide the uniforms, transportation…in the end I came up with no money.  I did one last contract in new Delhi on new year’s Eve in 1990… but I had already an idea about making costumes- I had already made costumes for Amani, Sihan Al Amir; and Badi’a, Samraa El Nil… so I decided to build a career.”          

Eman Zaki, 1970's...love the Farrah hair!

 The rest, as they say, is history… she not only built a career, but also set a new standard in the industry, becoming the costuming legend she is today. The entire Zaki family is involved; it is truly a family enterprise. Ali handles the business end, Hoda also has her own line of costumes, and Nadia works in the atelier as well.

Eman’s clients include the top names in Oriental Dance, from around the world. In addition to her ready-to-wear costume line, she also does commissioned work for legendary Egyptian stars.

 “Dina,” Eman says, “Knows exactly what she wants…she tells me, and I make it.  Randa has to see them, she cannot imagine, and Fifi Abdou is like Randa!”

And as for Eman’s gradual transition back to dancing?

“Oh, I missed it all the time!” she replied, very sincerely.

It was actually Sara Farouk who spurred her on to dancing and teaching again, booking a UK workshop for Eman in  May 2008.

“I was very nervous and full of stress!” Eman says,

 “I trained and trained for it!”

That workshop was such a resounding success, it lead to her master class at Ahlan WA Sahlan in 2009.

Seeing Eman in action, dancing and interpreting the music is a joy to behold. She seems to become the music, and, like her costumes, her physical movements are both elegant and playful. She taught Golden Age-style technique and choreography, to the music of a classic  Farid El Atrache song.

  “ It is only Farid El Atrache! I love Farid El Atrache so much!” Eman says,

 

Wearing a glorious Eman at The Mena House
Cairo, Egypt, 2009. Photo by Aleya Bellydance

 her eyes sparkling.

 “He mixes in something Western, his voice is full of love…. it’s also a little bit sexy!”

 When I ask Eman what sort of observations she has about Oriental Dance today, she is full of opinions.

“You show yourself inside when you are dancing! You have to search for music that fits your character, and dancers today, many of them just copy other dancers… you have to care about what you are doing, and be true with yourself!”

 Sara adds,

“There are no rules in Egyptian Oriental Dance, it’s all about being honest or dishonest with yourself!”

 Eman heartily agrees. And though thankfully she isn’t about to stop making costumes any time soon, she does plan on doing more dancing.

“ Dancing makes you happy…" Eman says,

“It’s something beautiful, dancing-it feeds your soul!”

##

 Eman’s Website: http://www.eman-zaki.com/

The Belly Dance Chronicles  is now available online as well as in hard copy:

http://www.isisandthestardancers.com/CHRONICLES/Chronicles.htm

BELLY DANCE TRAVEL AND TOURISM: STAYING SAFE AND SANE PART ONE

 This is Part One in a four-part series on belly dance travel and tourism. Even with the  social unrest in the Middle East and North Africa, many dancers are eager  to  travel to research, study and immerse themselves in  Oriental Dance.  If you're armed with  some knowledge about the places you'll be visiting  and  know what to expect  before and during your trip, you'll have a much better time.

 In this series, I'll cover everything from  keeping healthy and staying safe abroad to buying costumes; from cultural and social differences  to  breezing through security at  airports; from  communicating socially to haggling for a bargain.  

I learned all this stuff the hard way… but you won’t have to!

 After you’ve been studying our beautiful dance form  for a while, there may come a time when you want to travel to the places where belly dance originated. Whether you’re going to learn and do research or purely for fun, there are so many ways to visit The Middle East, North Africa and Central Asia that there is a trip for everyone. Your journey can be as luxurious- or as rustic–as you wish.

 Egypt and Turkey have numerous well-established belly dance festivals, and more are cropping up all the time, in places like Greece, Israel and Lebanon.

 Many American and European dance instructors offer belly dance tours, which are usually-but not always- based around a specific festival. You can also  sail on a luxury cruise with a set itinerary, or hike through the Atlas Mountains or Sahara Desert with no plan other than to explore. And many ex-patriot dancers living and working abroad open up their flats as mini-hostels  for visiting dancers. The possibilities are endless!

 When I look back on my very first trip Egypt in the early Nineties, I can’t believe I picked up and left the way that I did!

  I was a baby dancer with hardly any experience; absolutely obsessed with going to Cairo- nothing was gong to stop me! Because I wasn’t sure how long I was going to stay, I quit my job and told my family I’d be back in four to eight weeks. At that time, there was no internet or cell phones; in order to get an overseas phone line from Egypt to anywhere else in the world, even at Five Star hotels, you had to make a request at the front desk and wait around- sometimes for hours- until a line opened up and your call could be connected!

As my flight landed in Cairo, I hoped that the reservation I’d made- through the mail- had actually arrived at the hotel that I’d randomly picked out of a travel book!  I hadn’t anticipated that the signs would only be in Arabic, I had $300.00 in the pocket of my worn Levi’s, and though I had no contacts whatsoever in Egypt, but I knew I needed to see the Sphinx and The Pyramids. I had nothing but blind faith that I’d be able to find belly dancing…and I did!

These days, visiting the countries where belly dancing is indigenous is sooo much easier. But there are still many things you need to know that will make your trip run much more smoothly. 

 BEFORE YOU LEAVE

Passport & Visa

 In order to go on your dream trip, you’ll obviously need a passport. To gain entrance into most countries, your passport needs to be good for at least six months after your date of entry. In America, you can pick up an application at most U.S. Post Offices.   Send it in well in advance of your trip; it can take many weeks to process.

While you travel, keep your passport is in a convenient and safe place, somewhere you can get to easily. Depending on where you are, you may want to either carry your passport in a neck wallet concealed under your clothing (these are available on line or at stores that specialize in travel accoutrements) or keep your passport at the front desk of your hotel.

A good idea is to photocopy your passport, keeping the copy separate from the passport itself when you travel.  I keep a few photocopies tucked into pockets in my luggage.  You can also scan your passport and e-mail it to yourself.  That way you’ll always have the electronic copy.  Either of these options will not get you in and out of different countries, but will be of great help in the event your passport gets lost or stolen.

 If this happens, no matter where you are, report it immediately to the embassy for your country of origin, and a temporary passport will be issued to you.

Visas

 In some countries, your passport alone will get you in but in others, you’ll need a tourist visa. This is not usually a big deal; for example, in Egypt, you can purchase your visa as soon as you arrive in the airport, at the same kiosks where you can change money.

Vaccines

Before traveling to any exotic locale, find out if any immunizations are required, and make sure that all your vaccines (for example, tetanus or influenza shots) are up to date. Check on the Internet for travel advisories regarding epidemics or outbreaks.

 If you do need to get immunized, consult your doctor… And make sure to get any vaccines done at least two weeks before you travel in case you have a reaction, which can happen, though not often.

Travel Insurance

 Buying travel insurance is always a good idea in case of last minute cancellations due to some emergency or “Act Of God”. Depending on your coverage, it can also take care of foreign doctor and dentist visits, or covering a last minute flight back home. Travel insurance will also reimburse you for smaller things, such as the cost of a hotel room due to a flight cancellation, flight re-booking fees, or in case your luggage gets lost.

 Nowadays, with social unrest and political upheaval in the Middle East and North Africa, travel insurance is vital!

 You can purchase travel insurance on the Internet or through your travel agent.

What To Pack

 Almost every major airline now charges for checked bags, and each bag usually has a fifty-pound limit as well. Pack as lightly as possible. I usually bring a bare minimum amount of clothing, and check a nearly empty suitcase, which comes in handy for bringing back souvenirs…. and of course, costumes!

 On your return flight, pack your costumes (as many as will fit) into your carry-on bag. If anything gets lost when your bags are checked, it will be your easily replaceable street clothes.  In the past on trips to Egypt, I have even brought “disposable” items along- sneakers or walking shoes on their last legs, cheap rubber flip-flops, tourist-type T shirts, that sort of thing. You can give these items away before returning home, or as you go along. It will not only lighten your load, but many countries in the Middle East and North Africa are very poor, and people appreciate donations, which can always be put to good use. I once tipped a cab driver with a used blow dryer and some nail polish for his wife!

 As for what to bring on your tip to the Middle East or North Africa, remember that you will be traveling in predominantly Muslim countries and it’s imperative that  you  make sure to be respectful of the people you meet,  their religion and culture.

 That being said, unless you are entering a mosque (or visiting Saudi Arabia) you will probably not encounter a situation where you will absolutely need to cover your hair… but it never hurts to keep a scarf handy! 

Egypt’s leading industry is tourism, they’re used to tourists visiting from all over the world.  Places like Morocco and Tunisia have large cities that are very modern, though in rural areas and smaller villages, people dress in traditional clothes, the way they have for centuries.  Israel, Lebanon, Dubai and Turkey are extremely European, so many citizens not only “dress Western” but are also fashion forward!

No matter where you are going, bring hand washable clothing that can be layered, and comfy walking shoes for sightseeing.

 I suggest packing a lightweight jacket or sweater for cool mornings and evenings, sitting or sleeping in air conditioning on the plane, tour buses and in hotels. I bring a light pashmina scarf, which can be used in many ways, including covering up your head, arms and shoulders for modesty on the street, or for shielding you from the desert sun.

   Cargo pants or long shorts, jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, and sandals will all serve you well. Flowing ankle-length Indian skirts and long sleeved light cotton tops will come in handy and pack nicely.  Of course you will want to check out the belly dancers performing at nightclubs or major hotels, so bring a lightweight, knee-length jersey dress that can be dressed up with jewelry. If you will be at the seaside, on a cruise (whether down the Nile or through the Mediterranean) definitely bring a bathing suit, sunglasses, a hat, insect repellent and sun block!

Remember the 3-1-1 rules for carry on toiletries, and only bring whatever will fit in a quart-sized, clear plastic, zip-top bag. You only get one bag per passenger, and it needs to be placed in the screening bin at the airport.

Another good item to carry with you are disposable wet wipes. Take small travel size packets of Kleenex and definitely bring bottle of hand sanitizer. I always have these on hand when sightseeing, because it’s hard to tell what kind of restroom facilities you’ll run into…some are extremely primitive, we’re talkin’ holes in the ground!

  Health, Nutrition, Supplements And Medication

 Pack portable snack foods to take with you on your trip like trail mix, nuts, dried fruit, power bars, soups or noodles that can be made by adding boiling water.  These are really convenient – and often necessary when traveling! You’ll need something to sustain you  in case your flight gets delayed, or for day- long tours, lengthy bus or train rides, not to mention keeping your energy up at dance classes while you are jet-lagged! You may also want to bring along packets of a powdered energy/vitamin drink mix to add to bottled water for a quick burst of energy.

It’s always a good idea to carry small First Aid kit, including band-aids, anti-bacterial ointments, aspirin/pain relievers, antacids, and anti-diarrhea medications. Imodium is a fantastic over the counter remedy for stopping  “Pharaoh’s Revenge” so makes sure take some along with you. Acidophilus tablets or capsules are also good for the prevention of traveler’s diarrhea, and can lessen the severity of digestive problems. Taking it before you leave and throughout your trip will aid in maintaining the normal balance of flora and fauna in the intestines.

Pack any prescription medications you are taking in the original containers, along with a copy of the prescription, and possibly a note from your doctor; keep them in your carry on luggage.

Bring along extra feminine protection if you are used to wearing tampons; they are hard to find in many Muslim countries, ditto for birth control pills and condoms! And though most pharmacies are great, if you do take prescription birth control, definitely bring more than you think you will need, just in case.

If you wear contact lenses, bring extras or use disposables, and you’ll  totally want to keep a travel-sized bottle of re-wetting solution AND extra lenses in your purse while you are out and about. North Africa and The Middle East are very dry and sandy, and the desert climate can really irritate your contacts. You will NOT want to be stuck without spares!  Bring a pair of prescription glasses with you as well.

In all likelihood, the most common problems you’ll run into are sunburn, insect bites, blisters, exhaustion, and maybe a cold from the recycled air on the plane.  If you have prepared for these minor hazards in advance, you should be fine.

  You also need to know that sour stomach or "Pharoah's Revenge" is very common... so make double-sure you bring along some  Immodium  to combat  diarrhea.Though food poisoning does happen, it's more likely  that you're  feeling sick from the combination  of  unfamiliar foods and  the inevitable jet lag. Though  this  isn't at all fun, your symptoms will usually pass in a day or two, and  taking Immodium will  halt  any cramping and watery stools.  But when diarrhea is  accompanied  by chills  and fever,  you need to see a doctor, stat!

Most foreign pharmacies are excellent, with knowledgeable English speaking pharmacists and clerks, and they will often take care of you better than a physician can. Many hotels have a doctor on call at all times. If yours doesn’t, ask the concierge (or your friend, or host if you are staying at a private home) to call a general practitioner in the unlikely event you will need one.

*Part Two, "What To Expect When You Arrive"  will be coming up soon!