TAKE IT OFF! A GUIDE TO REMOVING STAGE MAKEUP FROM YOUR FACE, BODY AND COSTUMES

 

 Tons and tons of stage makeup...and it's gotta come off somehow! photo: Maharet Hughes

Ah, stage makeup: where would we dancers be without it?

 By using careful camouflage and strategically placed contouring, we can make our features look larger, smaller or way more dramatic. We become wide-eyed, pillow-lipped seductresses with chiseled cheekbones and jaw-lines. We morph into Pirate Wenches, Dying Swans, Roaring Twenties Flappers and mid-century Pin Up Girls.  With the addition of metallic powders, glitter and crystals, we turn into Fairy Queens and Every Goddess From Every Pantheon Ever.

Stage makeup looks gorgeous when you’re under the lights… and totally damn scary when you’re on your way to or from a gig, making a pit stop at a convenience store or fast food joint!  And once you’re home, taking it off seems like such an incredible chore.

Seriously, there’s almost nothing worse than waking up with some of last night’s Stage Face still on, is there? The pearly, highly pigmented turquoise eye shadow has turned into bright blue eye-boogers and you’ve got adhesive marks on your cheeks where brilliant rhinestones once twinkled. The fire engine red glitter you applied so carefully to your crimson lips migrated while you were in The Land Of Nod… and now the lower half of your face looks like it’s broken out in a case of sparkly smallpox.

Applying stage makeup is fun and gratifying, but sadly, most of us don’t know the best ways to get it off. Learning to take it off properly isn’t nearly as much fun…but your skin (and sometimes, your costumes and/or street clothes) will thank you for it!

Here’s a quick ‘n’dirty guide to cleaning up and taking off anything related to stage makeup:

Adhesives:  Almost any type of adhesive can usually be removed from the skin without scrubbing if you use oil.  Most oils will dissolve the adhesives (or tape marks from fashion or toupee tape) very gently from the face or body, including coconut, olive, jojoba, or almond oil.  Saturate a cotton ball or pad with the oil, apply to your skin and let it sit for 30-45 seconds, and the adhesive usually comes off with one sweep.   Use a second saturated pad if you don’t get all of it removed with the first swipe.

 For larger area of skin-on the body, not the face- baby oil works super well, too.  It’s best to avoid using on the face, because it can make the delicate skin there prone to break outs…and that, nobody needs!

 If the adhesive you were using were Spirit Gum (Mineral Spirits) regular oil might not cut it, so it’d be a prudent idea to invest in some adhesive remover from a beauty supply or theatrical store.

Fake Blood: Though it looks gory on stage, fake blood is usually easy to get off skin.  Just give it a few swipes with a make up wipe or even a baby wipe. If this doesn’t work, a few squirts of shaving cream usually lift the discoloration immediately.  Just be careful if you’re using menthol shaving cream around your eyes!

False Eyelash Glue Buildup: All the gunk from the lash glue builds up on your faux lashes, and it not only makes them difficult to apply, it’s a germ magnet, too! Cleaning off your falsies is pretty easy, though. Hold the last in one hand, from the edge, and pick the excess, dried up gunk off the band of the lash with a tweezers. It often comes off in a strip! If it only lifts off part way, just repeat the process til the lash band is clean and visible. Dip a Q-tip into alcohol, and swipe it across the band a couple of times to sterilize it…but make sure you let the lash dry for a minute or so before applying it to your eye!

Glitter: The best way to remove glitter that has migrated is to use tape. This is especially great if you’re doing a couple of numbers in a show, and need to do a quick clean up, cause using lotion or a makeup wipe usually just spreads the glitter around- I always keep a roll of tape in my gig bag!

Any kind of tape works, from plain old Scotch tape to packing tape…. I’ve even used duck tape, though it gives new meaning to the term exfoliation! All you do is roll a piece of tape into a loop, and press it gently against the area you want to clean. The glitter comes right up off your skin.  This trick even works for areas where the sparkles are concentrated, like glitter lips, though you’ll have to go over the area a few times.

Hair Dye Stains On The Skin: This is gonna sound gross, but it works like a charm! Mix up a paste of cigarette ashes and water, the thicker the better. Apply to the hairline, (wherever the dye dripped) with a Q-tip, rub it in and leave it on a minute or two. Rinse it off by wiping with a warm, soapy paper towel or washcloth, finish by splashing water on the area. Remember, in the olden days, they made soap with tallow and ashes- they’re a potent stain remover. If you don’t smoke or the ashes are yucky to you, do the shaving cream trick mentioned above. You can also try using rubbing alcohol, but it’s very drying to the skin, and there’ll be scrubbing involved, so be sure to moisturize right after.

 Makeup Stains On Fabric:  Try as we might, even if we’re very careful, our stage make up sometimes transfers to our costumes or accessories. If you get foundation or lipstick on a “fancy” fabric, like brocade, raw silk, velvet or satin, you’re best bet is to take it to a dry cleaner- believe me, they deal with these types of stains all the time! However, if your make up rubs off on anything washable- such as a lycra blend, a cotton or cotton poly blend, or synthetic chiffon ( hellooo? Skirts, veils and scarves) you can get it out yourself. I’ve even lifted foundation and lipstick stains from 100% silk veils and skirts- but you must be sure to do a spot-test first, to make sure the fabric dye itself is stable.

 All you need to remove make up is any or all of the following:  Dawn Dishwashing Liquid, or baby shampoo, rubbing alcohol, and a commercial stain remover. My favorite is Shout Advanced Action Gel, but seriously, almost all of them work. 

After you’ve done your test on an inside seam or the tiniest corner of a hem and discerned that the material you’re cleaning won’t lose it’s color, get started.

 Treat the stain by spraying the   Shout or whatever product you’re using directly onto it. Apply a generous amount, and let it sit anywhere from the recommended five minutes to fifteen or twenty.  Usually, even with the product still wet on the fabric, if the stain looks like it isn’t there, then the stain remover has done its job. If you can still see a bit of the stain, apply a little more of the stain remover.  Or, you can pour a few capfuls of the rubbing alcohol directly on to the area. Either way works.  Next, fill up the sink or your tub with lukewarm water- and err on the cooler side, because hot water actually sets stains!  Add a few squirts of Dawn or the baby shampoo while the water is running. Place the garment in the water and swish it around gently for a couple of minutes. Drain the water, lightly squeeze the excess soapy water of the garment you’re washing, and refill the basin or tub again. Repeat this step a couple of more times til all the soap and cleaning products are gone, and gently squeeze the clean water from your costume. Hang to dry or lay it flat- your choice, but do not let it dry in direct sunlight- it’s the heat thing again. If any of the stain is still visible after your costume dries, repeat the process again, and the second time should eradicate all of the stain.

Liquid Latex: Sounds crazy, but most liquid latex comes off the skin easily and with hardly any scrubbing by using plain old soap and water. If you get a few patches where the latex went on heavily, dab with a bit of oil, then wash with soap and water once more.

 One last word to the wise: I always have a small Backstage Emergency Kit in my gig bag that has a needle and thread, safety pins, bobby pins and much of the afore -mentioned materials: a roll of scotch tape (or even a lint roller) a travel sized pack of make up wipes and/or baby wipes, a box of Q-tips, a stain stick and a tiny spray bottle/mister with rubbing alcohol.

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 If ya want to learn how to get stage makeup ON before you take it off, purchase my “Bombshell: Dramatic MakeUp For The Stage, Photos & Glamorous Occasions” here:

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Bombshell: Dramatic Makeup DVD with Princess Farhana and DeVilla  photo: Dusti Cunningham

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FINE FEATHERED FRIENDS: MAINTAINING FEATHER FANS, DANCE COSTUMES AND HEADDRESSES

Photo by Lapis

Feathers look absolutely sensational onstage. 

Whether you’re using huge Sally Rand fans, rockin’ a lusciously fat boa, or wearing a costume and/or headdress  trimmed with feathers, they always look  glamorous and amazing. The plumes waft through the air looking elegant and ethereal or flirtatiously accent every shimmy. They also make the audience swoon like nothing else. But beautiful plumed costumes, props and accessories are also expensive….so you should definitely know how to maintain them!

 The first thing you need to know is that plumes pick up oils from your skin quite easily. Our natural sebaceous oils will adhere to the feathers and attract more dirt.  

Always wash your hands before using your fans or wearing your boas; please don’t wear any  oily body lotions when using these props. And remember: lip gloss is literally  The Kiss Of Death onstage – not just cause it will mess up your feather  props and costume pieces, but because you’ll spend the entire show spitting errant fluff out of your mouth!

Here are some tips on maintaining your feather props and costume pieces:

Feather Fan Storage

 Store your   large ( or smaller) plumed fans  in one of those long, sturdy locking plastic containers. Rubbermaid makes a terrific, rectangular  giant sized one… but you can find several types at places like Target or Walmart, too.

You can easily fit a couple of sets of  Sally Rand fans- and more, if they’re smaller- in these without cramping them. Make sure to lay the feathers into the container with the plumes facing up so you won’t break the spines.   Before sealing the box for storage, add in cedar chip sachets or  plenty of cedar balls to prevent insect infestation- moths adore fans! You can also use good old mothbalss, but I dislike them for two reasons:  they stink like chemicals, and more importantly, they’re toxic to pets.

 Fan Maintenance

 Check and  if necessary, repair your fans thoroughly before each performance. Keep a Fan Emergency Kit with you in your bag  whenever you’re gigging. It should include an extra  hex bolt  in case the one on the butt-end of your fan blades gets stripped,  a tube of  crazy glue in case your feathers start releasing from the staves,  some pliable craft wire and a jewelry pliers. You’ll also need  a “stubby screw driver”- an adorable teensy tool that often comes with both a straight  head and a Phillips or star-shaped head. They’re really inexpensive  and even come in bright colors like purple, pink and aqua

Fan Transportation

I have a specially made carrying case for transporting  my Sally Rand fans to local gigs, but  a long, wide   document tube or Fed Ex box would work just as well! For air travel, your fans will undoubtedly need to be checked ( they’re usually too long for the  storage bins in the cabin) so  make sure you pad whatever container you’re using well and include your little tool kit.

 Storing and caring for  Boas, feathered Costumes And Headdresses

Store your feather boas in the same way you would your Sally Rand fans or smaller feather fans- in a tightly sealed  plastic container, with cedar chips to keep moths away. Depending on the size of the boa, you can use abig round container, the type made for large cakes. Coil the boa up like a snake ( a boa snake, of course!) and  close the container.

Larger boas might not fit into a cake container, so some gals store their boas in round hat boxes.  When I do this, then I seal the boa in  a  large plastic bag with the cedar chips  before putting it in the hat box-  just to be extra careful about insect infestation. 

To store headdresses, I have found that the  easiest way is to place them on a Styrofoam wig stand, and pin them securely onto the wig head itself. I then wrap the headdress in plastic wrap, sealing it firmly around the bottom of the wig-head, and store the entire thing on a shelf. Again, throw in a sachet of cedar chips. If your headdress is large, you can also stick an opened-up wire hanger  or two into the Styrofoam, to  create a “tent”, holding the plastic up so it won’t break or bend the feathers.  You might also have to weigh down the bottom of the stand to prevent it from toppling over due to the height and weight of the headdress.

Feather boas and feathered headresses are simply  the height of glamour- but since feathers are basically an animal ( or rather, avian) product, they tend to dry out over time  and can become droopy or flattened out and limp. To restore your  boas to  their brand-new fluffiness,  you’ll need to care for them and  maintain them occasionally. 

Grab your boa and briskly but gently feathers  between your hands. This will shake off any dust as well as  fluff  up the “nap” of the feathers,  making each one look perky again.

You can also clean the feathers on your headdresses the same way- but instead of using your entire hand, fluff each feather individually with your fingers.

For a costume that has feathered accents, do the same – just fluff the plumes with your fingers.

 Next, steam your  boa or headdress. If you have a clothing steamer,  hang the boa up by one end and steam it this way, being super-careful not to get the  tip of the steamer too close to the feathers- you want the fine mist to cover the  boa, but  you don’t want it dripping wet! Steam each section of the boa only for a few seconds, until the feathers have opened up.  For a headdress, do this while the headdress is sitting on the wig stand.

If you’re cleaning feather accents  that are sewed or glued to a costume, use  your steamer in the same way.

 If you don’t own or have access to a steamer, you can also use a tea kettle or a large  pot full of  boiling water  to steam  your  boa, holding it horizontally over the  pot or kettle, steaming it in sections.  For headdresses, make sure to hit  only  the tips of the feathers with steam- try not to get the crown wet.   I do not  recommend this method for costumes with feather accents, though.

Be very careful not to burn your hands or fingers- steam is just as hot-if not more so- than boiling water!

 Make sure to turn off the flame on the stove burner off while doing this or you’ll be courting disaster… BOAS AND FEATHERS ARE HIGHLY FLAMMABLE!

 If you maintain your gorgeous feathered costumes and props well, they’ll look great for years!

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BEST FOOT FORWARD: BELLY DANCE FOOTWEAR

 Shoes at  The Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, April, 2013

 Like most belly dancers, I love the look and feel of dancing barefoot.  It’s traditional for our art form, so it gives us a connection to our foremothers…but since we’re modern chicks in a modern world, we don’t usually get the chance to dance on the gleaming polished marble floors of temples, or the soft earth of our village square! We might be working in a theater where the stage floor is splintered or the backstage area isn’t optimally clean, or in a restaurant where shards of broken glass from wine goblets or even another dancer’s beads can get into our soles, or even at a street festival on the hot pavement… SO WE NEED TO PROTECT OUR FEET!

 Under the umbrella of belly dance, there’s a myriad of performance styles- but luckily, there’s also an abundance of footwear options that will go with any sort of costume you have.  Here are some ideas for shoes that will both preserve your tootsies, as well as look great in performance.

 Ballet Slippers

 Soft and pliable, these shoes come in full sole or split sole, and there are many options and styles to choose from. Made with uppers of soft leather or durable canvas, ballet slippers will mold to your foot, and feel as flexible as though you were barefoot, while keeping your feet clean as well as protecting them from any debris that may be on your performance surface. Some styles have straps attached; some have elastic straps you can sew on yourself.  Ballet slippers have suede sole, which allows for clean, smooth turn while still providing a bit of traction. If you are using ballet slippers for restaurant or club work, you may want to take them to a shoemaker and have a thin layer of  “dance rubber” put on over the suede sole in order to make them a little more durable. This will give the shoe’s sole more traction, and further protect your foot, as well as make the shoe itself last longer. If you get a pair in classic “ballet pink” or beige, the shoes can be dyed to match a particular costume, and they can also be easily embellished with appliqués or rhinestones to jazz them up a bit.  Ballet slippers can be purchased on line, or at any dance store

Egyptian Dance Slippers

Similar to ballet slippers, these Egyptian imports are usually constructed along the lines of ballet slippers, but with an elasticized edge that fits around the top of your foot, as opposed to straps that go across your arch or ankle.  They are usually cut low in the vamp and made with a slightly pointier toe than ballet slippers- this makes for a nice visual line. These suede -soled soft shoes are usually available in a range of metallics and colors, and the soles are slightly thicker than ballet slippers- some even having half-inch heels. The uppers are made of leather or man-made materials, and come in a variety of colors; some are beautifully embroidered or beaded.      

Egyptian Dance Slippers

 You can find Egyptian dance slippers carried by vendors at dance festivals, or sometimes on line, available through belly dance costume and supply websites. A word to the wise: most Egyptian dance slippers run a little snug, and are usually sized in standard European sizes (but sometimes marked in Arabic numbers!) so take this into consideration. If you are buying the shoes online, make sure you know what your Euro- size conversion is!

Jazz Shoes

These are similar to ballet slippers, but have a full vamp that usually laces up, like an oxford. Jazz shoes don’t  look too glamorous on stage, but because of their thin soles and very small, flat heel, they offer a lot of support and are great for teaching. There are now many varieties of jazz shoes, including lightweight, pliable jazz boots and sneakers, which are great under long skirts or pants. These offer ankle support, as well. Most standard jazz shoes have prices comparable to ballet slippers.

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Ghillies

Popular for use in Irish dancing, Ghillies are also a great option for belly dancers. They are soft, pliable slipper-type shoes made of suede or leather, with a flexible suede sole that resembles a sort of hybrid of ballet slippers and sandals, due to the lacing that begins on the vamp of the shoes and continues up to tie around the ankles. These shoes could look great with a variety of costumes, from Cabaret to Tribal, to Goth. The lacing, usually made of cord or rawhide, could be swapped out for ribbons that match or contrast with your costumes.  Once again, you might want to add dance leather to increase the shoe’s durability and lifespan.

  Hermes or Grecian Sandals

 These sandals have always been a popular choice among belly dancers. Made of thin, pliable neutral or metallic leather with flexible suede sole, Hermes Sandals look like Grecian Goddess or Gladiator-wear.  They are basically a thong sandal fitted with small leather loops around the sides of the sole, and long laces that criss-cross along the top of the foot, wrapping around the ankles - or up the leg as the case may be, similar to the way pointe shoes would be tied. Hermes sandals offer protection to the bottom of your foot, but not a lot of support, and many dancers don’t like the binding feeling of the ties wrapped around the ankle.

Lyrical Shoes

 Sometimes called “sandalettes” lyrical or modern dance shoes are a hybrid of a shoe and sandal, often with an open or partially open soft sole. Usually constructed of ultra-pliable suede or leather, with elastic or elasticized leather or suede straps.  The thing that differentiates them from other dance sandals is that either the ball or heel of the foot- and sometimes both- is left bare, so at least par of the foot has full contact with the stage.

Dance Sneakers

 Unless you’re doing hip hop  or some other kind of athletic fusion, you wouldn’t wanna wear these onstage, but DAYYUM…they’re great for teaching!  They offer full support, and have soft, springy soles that are literally shock absorbers- which is great if you’re going to be on your feet all day in a studio!

Dance Paws/ Footies

 Dance Paws are a soft, snug covering for the ball of the foot. The tops of are usually made of some type of stretchy material, with little openings that fit around each toe, kind of like gloves for the feet. The soles are lightly padded, and can made of be suede or synthetic.  Flesh tone dance paws are nearly invisible on stage, but  they also come in a variety of colors and prints.

 

Custom Made Character Shoes

 Character Shoes

 These study, closed-toe workhorse shoes go well with almost any style of dance. Within the character shoe category are standard tap shoes, Tango shoes, and T-strap and Mary Jane vintage-look “chorus girl”- type styles that would work well with a range of costumes.  Usually available in flesh-toned tan and black, they also can be custom ordered in a range of colors and metallics. They are equipped with a hard, thick heel (heights range from about 1.5-3”) and grooved leather sole, which also takes well to a thin application of dance rubber. The oval-shaped toe-box, while giving a streamlined look, fully protects your feet and is unusually roomier for dancers with wider feet. Built for optimal support, these shoes can really take a beating. They work well for all styles of dance, and offer variety- depending on which style you choose, they can work for anything from straight ahead belly dance, folkloric, classic, even a 1920’s or Victorian Gothic flavor. I even have a pair of Capezio Tango-style character shoes that I bought for stage use, but because they were so darn comfy- and foxy – that I wound up wearing incessantly in my “civilian” life! Expect to pay anywhere from about USD $20.00-$250.00 for character shoes, and they are well worth the price!

Boots

 With the popularity of belly dance fusion, many performers like to wear boots onstage, and many dancewear manufacturers offer wide selections of dance boots. These can range from lace-up cancan booties with small Louis heels to flat, soft-soled boots that would fit right into a pirate or medieval-themed performance. Many dancers even opt to wear street boots, but once again, these do not offer the support of those specifically made for dance.

Ballroom Shoes

Hands-down the most glamorous and showy choice for dancers, ballroom shoes offer complete support to the entire foot, and yet look amazing. They come in a mind-bending variety of styles and colors, including loud animal and reptile prints- a veritable rainbow of metallic leathers, shiny fabrics, contrasting colors and sometimes-even rhinestone buckles. Style-wise, ballroom shoes can be open toed, close-toed, ankle straps, tie-straps, and made with many different heel heights and widths as well.  The uppers are usually strappy, but though they look flimsy, these shoes are constructed with dancing in mind.                                                           

The soles are suede, and let you really feel the floor, but there is usually a steel shank embedded in the arch of the shoe leading up to the heel, which offers optimal support. Again, you can have the suede soles covered with dance rubber, but it’s not necessary.  Ballroom shoes are available  “out-of-the-box” but many dancers have theirs custom-made, mixing and matching styles, colors, and even heels shapes and heights to their own personal choice.  Either way, expect to pay a lot for these babies.  What they ARE NOT is cheap, but they are constructed so well, it’s always a great investment.         

Ballroom Shoes

 When I first started dancing, at the recommendation of my teacher, I bit the bullet and paid $98.00 for a pair of gold and silver ballroom shoes to use for belly dancing. At the time, I thought I was nuts- why did I spend that excessive amount of money on a pair of shoes when I could put it towards buying a costume? But I wore them incessantly, and it was TWELVE YEARS (and four sets of-re-soling) before I finally had to retire them, due to wear and tear. A dozen years of wearing them three to seven times a week- you do the math! Nowadays, the prices on ballroom shoes range anywhere from USD $30.00- $400.00, depending on what type you get. Do what I did- bite the bullet, you WILL NOT regret it!

 In general, professional dance shoes are designed to look good onstage while they protect your feet, and that’s a really smart investment in your dance career!

 If You Opt To Dance Barefoot

 Make sure you have a clean performance surface. If there are other dancers working the stage before you, asks someone to sweep up between performances, so you don’t get a bead embedded in your foot, which is a classic- and very typical- belly dance injury. Carry a package of baby-wipes with you to clean your feet before slipping back into your street shoes, and bring a pair of flip-flops along to get you to and from the stage safely. You may want to bring some band-aids along too, in case of emergency. And check your tootsies- nothing wrecks your gorgeous stage appearance like dirty, calloused feet with a chipped pedicure!

PREENING YOUR PLUMAGE: CARING FOR YOUR FEATHER PROPS AND COSTUMES

Princess Farhana by Clint Marien

 Oh, we  dancers love us some feathers!

 Whether you’re rocking a showgirl  headdress,  a lusciously fat boa, humongous  Sally Rand fans, or  wearing  a costume trimmed with feathers, they always look  sensational onstage. They waft through the air looking elegant and ethereal or flirtatiously accent every shimmy; the phrase “shake your tail feathers” comes to mind! 

Beautiful, high quality  plumed costumes, props and accessories are also expensive.

In order to keep your costumes and props in tip-top shape, should definitely know should know how to maintain them.  One of the first things you need to remember about caring for your feather boas and fans  is that they  pick up oils from your skin quite easily. Your  natural sebaceous oils will stick to the feathers and attract more dirt.  Always wash your hands before using your fans or wearing your boas. Also, don’t wear any  potentially sticky or oily body lotions when using these props. And remember…lip gloss is literally  The Kiss Of Death onstage – not just cause it will mess up your feather  props and costume pieces, but because you’ll spend the entire show spitting errant fluff out of your mouth!

 

Here are some tips on maintaining your feather props and costume pieces:

SALLY RAND  FAN   AND OSTRICH PLUME FAN  STORAGE , CLEANING & TRANSPORTATION

Store your  plumed beauties in one of those long, sturdy locking plastic containers-Rubbermaid makes a terrific, rectangular  giant sized one…you can usually fir a couple of sets of fans in these without cramping them. Make sure to lay the feathers into the container  with the plumes facing up so you won’t break the spins.  These containers are easy to find at places like Target and Walmart. Before sealing the box for storage, make  sure to add in cedar chip sachets or  plenty of cedar balls to prevent insect infestation- moths adore fans!

Stubby Screwdrivers

 Check and maintain your fans thoroughly before each performance. Keep a  Fan Emergency Kit with you in your bag  whenever you’re gigging. It should include an extra  hex bolt  in case the one on the butt-end of your fan blades gets stripped,  a tube of  crazy glue in case your feathers start releasing from the staves,  and some pliable craft wire and a jewelry pliers. You’ll also need  a “stubby screw driver”- an adorable teensy tool that often comes with both a straight  head and a Phillips ( star-shaped) head. They’re really  inexpensive  and even come in bright colors like purple, pink and aqua!     You can even add a 3^rd string to the other two, closer to the screw end of the blades.  

I have a specially made carrying case for transporting  my Sally Rand  fans to local gigs, but  a long  document tube or Fed Ex box would work just as well! For  air travel, your fans will undoubtedly need to be checked ( they’re usually too long for the  storage bins in the cabin) so  make sure you pad whatever container you’re using well and include your little tool kit.

 STORING AND CARING FOR BOAS, FEATHERED HEADRESSES  AND FEATHERED COSTUMES

Store your feather boas in the same way  you would your Sally Rand fans or smaller feather fans- in a tightly sealed  plastic container, with cedar chips  to keep moths away.  Depending on the size of the boa, you can use a  round container, the type made for large cakes.  Coil the boa up like a snake ( a BOA snake, of course!) and   close the container. Larger boas might not fit into a cake container, so some gals store their boas in round old-school hat boxes.  When I do this, then I  seal the boa in  a  large plastic bag  with the cedar chips  before putting it in the hat box-  just to be extra careful about insect infestation. 

To store  your headdresses,  I have found that the  easiest way is to place them on a Styrofoam wig stand, and pin them securely onto the wig head itself. I then wrap the headdress in plastic wrap, sealing  it firmly around the bottom of the wig-head, and store the entire thing on a shelf.

 Again, throw in a sachet of cedar chips. If your headdress is large, you can also stick an opened-up wire hanger  or two into the Styrofoam, to  create a “tent”, holding the plastic up so it won’t break or bend the feathers.  You might also have to weigh down the bottom of the stand to prevent it from toppling over due to the height and weight of the headdress.

Feather boas and feathered headresses are simply  the height of glamour- but since feathers are basically an animal ( or rather, avian) product,  they tend to dry out over time  and can become droopy or flattened out and limp. To restore your  boas to  their brand-new fluffiness,  you’ll need to care for them and  maintain them occasionally. 

Grab your boa and briskly but gently  feathers  between your hands. This will shake off any dust as well as  fluff  up the “nap” of the feathers,  making each one  perkier.

Princess Farhana by Maharet

You can also clean the feathers on your headdresses the same way- but instead of using your entire hand, fluff each feather individually with your fingers.

For a costume that has feathered accents, do the same – just fluff the plumes with your fingers.

 Next, steam your  boa or headdress. If you have a  clothing steamer, you can hang the boa up  by one end and steam it this way, being super-careful not to get the  tip of the steamer too close to the feathers- you want the fine mist to cover the  boat, but  you don’t want it dripping wet!  Steam each section of the boa only for a few seconds, until the feathers have opened up.  For a headdress, do this while the headdress is sitting on it’s stand.

If you’re cleaning feathers  that are sewed or glued to a costume, use  your steamer in the same way.

 If you don’t own or have access to a steamer, you can also use a tea kettle or  a large  pot full of  boiling water  to steam  your  boa, holding it horizontally over the  pot or kettle, steaming it in sections.  For headdresses, just make sure to hit  the tips of the feathers with steam- try not to get the crown wet.   I wouldn’t recommend this method for costumes with feather accents, though.

Be very careful not to burn your hands or fingers- steam is just as hot-if not more so- than boiling water!

 Make sure to turn off the flame on the stove burner off while doing this or you’ll be courting disaster… BOAS AND FEATHERS ARE HIGHLY FLAMMABLE!

 WASHING YOUR FEATHER BOAS

 If your boa has become really dirty, you might need to wash it. In this case, make sure  you really  agitate the feathers to get as much dust or dirt off them as possible!  I use lukewarm water  because many dyed fathers are not colorfast.  I use  baby shampoo or a very gentle  dish detergent- nothing too harsh.   Swish the feathers around very lightly in a bathtub that’s about a quarter full. A sink is usually too small for a boa, and you definitely don’t want to break the spine of the feathers by  cramping them into a small basin!    Make sure to dry the boa  naturally,  hanging it by one end from a clothes line of a shower curtain rod.   Once in a while, I’ve hit them with a blow-dryer, but  always on the “cool” setting only.  Also, most boas are twisted when they are manufactured.  Heavier boas, such as ostrich or turkey  ruff  can lose their  twist with use ( or, of course, through washing!)  and should be periodically re-twisted to maintain their appearance.

 TAKE GOOD  CARE OF YOUR FEATHERS,  YOU'LL LOOK MAAHHVELOUS, DAAHHLING!!!!

                                                          

Princess Farhana by Michael Baxter