BELLY DANCE TRAVEL AND TOURISM-STAYING SAFE & SANE: PART FOUR

 This is Part Four in a four-part series on belly dance travel and tourism. Even with the  social unrest in the Middle East and North Africa, many dancers are eager  to  travel to research, study and immerse themselves in  Oriental Dance.  If you're armed with  some knowledge about the places you'll be visiting  and  know what to expect  before and during your trip, you'll have a much better time.

 In this series, I'll cover everything from  keeping healthy and staying safe abroad to buying costumes; from cultural and social differences  to  breezing through security at  airports; from  communicating socially to haggling for a bargain.  

I learned all this stuff the hard way… but you won’t have to!

Cultural Differences And Culture Shock

While the countries you are visiting may be fascinating in terms of the museums, ancient sites, and the dancing you will see and learn, bear in mind that many of these places are underdeveloped compared to America and Europe. You may find yourself actually disoriented because it is so different from what your are used to…or what you expected it to be like.  Lack of sleep due to jet lag can also make you crabby or overly emotional, which can sometimes make these disparities magnified.  This is known as culture shock.

The best way to reduce your own culture shock is to inform yourself by finding out as much as you can about a country before visiting it, and to realize consciously that you must be patient, understanding, and open to a new way of life...at least temporarily!

 I don’t mean to scare you or burst your bubble, but extreme poverty is rampant in many of the places you’ll be visiting. It’s definitely not all white sand, alabaster temples and pristine ruins.  Undoubtedly, you will see things that will disturb you such as ragged children playing in the dirt or horribly crippled beggars.  It is also not at all uncommon to see many sick stray animals or to witness animal abuse (such as horses, donkeys or camels being whipped) on the streets, either.

 I remember being very upset pretty frequently on my first couple of trips to Egypt; when I saw things like this, it made me feel awful and helpless.  But you have to try to process through this, and take an almost detached, anthropological view of things, or it will completely ruin your trip.

 I always give spare coins, pens, and cartoon stickers from the USA to kids, and food  (stolen from the buffets my hotel!) to the beggars. I also save buffet scraps for the dogs and cats on the street. That’s about all you can do when you are there. If you are still thinking about this when you get home, you can become involved in donating to a charity or foundation, or putting on a fund-raiser or something like that.  And once you are home, you will also realize how lucky you are and how good you have it!

Some other less troubling cultural differences you might notice are that in public  or on the street: the concept of personal space and physical boundaries are quite dissimilar to what you are used to.  It may be frustrating to you that the signs are not always printed in your own language, and there may not be a number of conveniences you take for granted at home.  Also, the general pace of things will be much slower than what we are used to in the West, and that may start to annoy you.

You will probably find that the service in restaurants and even government offices are incredibly methodical and sluggish, this is also a cultural difference. Many of the   merchants at the bazaars are brazen, unrelenting and often downright obnoxious; again this is typical in the Middle East and North Africa. Tourism is big business, there are endless shops selling the same trinkets, and even if you think you are poor, you’re very wealthy compared to most of the locals.

  The best thing to do if you are not interested in shopping is simply to not engage with the shop keepers -in any way. Even looking at merchandise the way you would at home can be a signal that you are ready to purchase an item, which will lead to the afore-mentioned lengthy (and expected) process of bargaining. While you are getting antsy, wishing you could just cut to the chase already, the merchant probably will not notice your impatience, since this type bargaining scenario is commonplace!

 A significant difference in the countries you are likely to visit are the customs involving social  interactions between the sexes.

 In Muslim countries, women have rigidly defined roles, and each country differs depending upon what degree Sharia law is practiced. For example, if you are traveling with a male companion, don’t be surprised if people you meet speak only to him and ignore you! It’s almost automatically assumed that any man you are with is your husband or a family member, not your platonic pal from back home.

  Make sure to keep your interactions with men- even hotel employees, customs agents, merchants or waiters- on the polite, conservative side.  What you see as friendly social behavior might be construed as embarrassing, inappropriately familiar or even a sexual

come-on, which leads us to:

 The B-Word

 The B-Word stands for Belly Dance.

In the West, most dancers who have never visited these places have no idea how belly dancers are perceived in Muslim counties. While we all struggle to keep the dance “decent” and  “cultural”, in many of the nations that brought us this beautiful art form, belly dancers- no matter how well-loved or how famous they are- are regarded as little more than prostitutes.

 I know this may seem impossible to digest, but it’s true. And while I am mentioning this, I might as well add this controversial statement: since religious conservatism has been so sharply on the rise in the Middle East and North Africa, whether you are a dancer or not, the very fact that you are not Muslim - and not covered up modestly -will also make you appear “suspect”. Sure, there are exceptions, but it’s better to err on the side of caution.

 Unless you are at a belly dance festival, when you are in public, for your own protection, dress conservatively and please don’t ever let people know you are a dancer!

 Personal Safety

While North African and the Middle East used to be among the safest destinations in the world, sadly this isn’t true anymore.

Many of the major cities have almost exactly the same type of crime problems as comparable places in the USA or Europe. Because of this, you may wish to register with your embassy prior to or upon your arrival. Also, in some countries, you may have to register your electronic devices at the airport, to ensure they are not intended as black market items!

While traveling, use the same common sense that you would use in any large city or urban area!

 Leave your expensive jewelry back at home, and keep any valuables you’ve taken with you, including your money and passport, in the hotel safe or on your person at all times.  Keep a separate record of your passport and credit card numbers in case you need to have them replaced; make sure you know the phone numbers for your embassy as well as the international numbers for lost or stolen credit cards. Don’t flash your cash or leave expensive cameras lying around unattended, even at hotels or cafes in tourist areas.

 Be aware of your surroundings. Keep your purse close; motorbike muggings have been on the rise. After dark, go out in pairs or groups, never alone- and this includes taking taxis that you hail on the street! Always use the “safer” cabs that are from large companies, do not get into any  independent taxi cabs.

 Have the front desk at your hotel write out the address in Arabic, so you can show it to cab drivers and they’ll know where to take you.  Negotiate a price for your cab trips before you get into the taxi- many don’t have meters! Keep the phone number of your residence, hostel or hotel with you at all time, in case you get lost.

Since the  Arab spring of 2011, things have been changing rapidly in North Africa and The Middle East.    Sexual harassment, especially on the street, has escalated alarmingly.  Not so very long ago,  the most female  tourists received was blatant staring, but  that is not the case any more. "Accidental" encounters  like brushing and groping  are happening more and more frequently.

The sad truth is that sexual harassment-especially on the street-  is a major problem  for   foreign or native women in Egypt.  It doesn’t matter whether you are full covered or not, it’s rampant. Dress modestly and keep a low profile. Blondes and redheads will definitely receive more attention on the streets, no matter what   sort of clothes they wear. Be prepared for this and take it with a grain of salt, don’t let any unwanted attention-or even good-natured flirtation- get to you.  Earlier I said it was not usually necessary to cover your hair, but you may want to consider it if you’re getting a lot of “interest” on the street!

  In case some sort of unwanted physical contact  happens to you, do not be afraid to  make a scene!   Make sure to  be as loud as you can,  there is no such thing  as  “over reacting”. Once you do and the situation has escalated,  anyone near you  will be highly likely to rush to your aid.

 Tourism has always been Egypt’s “main export”, and  that goes  double since  The  Revolution- tourism has dropped considerably, and everyone  working in the tourism industry  is aware  of  the economic impact  because of this. Call the  police  and make a report if necessary.

 I will say it again- NEVER go out alone after dark!

    That being said  one of the great things about travel is the people you meet. Make new friends with the locals or other tourists, but be wary of completely trusting anyone right off the bat.  Use your street smarts, character assessment  and  judgment.   Have fun, but  weigh the situation  mentally before accepting any offers of a place to visit or stay with your newfound acquaintances.

  Do not accept drugs from anyone. Don’t accept cocktails-or any drink, for that matter (which might be drugged) unless they come directly from the bar.

 If you feel unsafe at any time, remove yourself from that situation immediately!

 Make sure to ask permission before taking a photo or video of any locals or people you do not know.

  Never take photos of anything related to the military or national security; it’s usually against the law!

This includes some monuments, government buildings, police officers, soldiers, and any police or military vehicles, border crossings and the like. When in doubt, ask before you shoot.

 Make sure you communicate regularly with your family and friends at home, and let them know your whereabouts, especially if you are visiting multiple destinations.

 Be a savvy traveler and you’ll have a fantastic time…Bon Voyage!

BELLY DANCE TRAVEL AND TOURISM- STAYING SAFE & SANE: PART THREEE

 This is Part Three in a four-part series on belly dance travel and tourism. Even with the  social unrest in the Middle East and North Africa, many dancers are eager  to  travel to research, study and immerse themselves in  Oriental Dance.  If you're armed with  some knowledge about the places you'll be visiting  and  know what to expect  before and during your trip, you'll have a much better time.

 In this series, I'll cover everything from  keeping healthy and staying safe abroad to buying costumes; from cultural and social differences  to  breezing through security at  airports; from  communicating socially to haggling for a bargain.  

I learned all this stuff the hard way… but you won’t have to!

Dance Festivals, Tours And Classes

For most dancers, the idea of going on a belly dance tour or attending a dance festival in one of the countries where the dance originated is heaven on earth. Imagine getting to see performances from your favorite dancers-many of them living legends- and also being able to study with your idols… in between sightseeing and shopping excursions!  It’s not just a dream come true, it’s also likely that your trip will exceed your wildest fantasies! You’ll witness scenes that look like they just popped off the pages of a history book, you’ll hear incredible live music, absorb the culture, and be dazzled by the magic of it all.

 However enthusiastic you are, (and I’m relatively sure you’ll be bouncing off the walls just thinking about it) you need to acknowledge that pretty much everything you do will be a “peak experience”. Keep in mind the fact that you are mortal, and concentrate on reigning yourself in just a little, going for quality, not quantity.

 At dance festivals, you’ll want to take every class- and attend the gala shows, sign up to perform, shop for costumes, and talk to all your new friends from around the world. On tours, you’ll be waking up at 5:00am to visit ancient ruins, exploring the countryside and major cities, going to nightclubs, wandering through bazaars, museums and mosques and taking private classes.

There will be so much you want to do, there’s no way you’ll be able to do it all… so choose your activities wisely.

 Instead of booking non-stop dance classes, just pick workshops with your favorite instructors, (or someone who is highly recommended) and schedule in a little bit of downtime for yourself. Take advantage of your hotel’s pool or spa services.  Don’t feel the need to participate in every activity that is offered, whittle down your list of potential excursions to those you are really interested in. You might even want to spend a relaxing evening in your hotel room, enjoying room service and the amazing selection of Arabic music videos that are on television 24 hours a day. A couple of years ago, on a tour I was leading to Egypt, I once walked in on a roomful of girls tipsy on Duty Free wine, giggling hysterically as they watched “Oprah” dubbed in Arabic!

If you haven’t been to a foreign festival or on a tour before, this might seem impossible, but because of jet lag and your own excitement, it’s fairly typical to forget to eat or drink enough water. Add this to five or fewer hour of sleep a night, and you’re setting yourself up for disaster. 

Please remember that you need to stay well hydrated, well fed, and get enough sleep.  Injuries and illnesses typically occur when the body is exhausted- and trust me; you will be over-tired when you are traveling…especially at a dance festival!

The biggest piece of advice I can give you on attending belly dance festivals or going on dance tours in foreign countries is… pace yourself!

Buying Costumes

 Costume prices vary in Egypt, Lebanon and Turkey. There are always cheap souvenir costumes available at the souks, but these “airport specials” are most likely not worth bothering with if you are a professional dancer.

  In Cairo, custom made stage wear and off-the-rack costumes altered to fit you from top designers like Eman Zaki, Sahar or Hanan will probably run  $500.00 and up, but you can often get a discount if you purchase more than one.  Though many costume vendors will go for some  bargaining, most of the major ateliers will not, unless you are a regular customer.

If you’re not a “label whore”, you can easily find very nicely made, gorgeous costumes from up –and-coming or  “generic” ateliers for $60.00 - $350.00.

Bella of Istanbul does lovely costumes, but expect to pay Western prices for her custom made numbers. Even so, they are definitely worth it!

 Take your time and shop carefully, make a list of exactly what you want before you leave home…because your eyes will be literally popping out of your head when you see all the gorgeous stuff on display!

BELLY DANCE TRAVEL AND TOURISM: STAYING SAFE AND SANE PART ONE

 This is Part One in a four-part series on belly dance travel and tourism. Even with the  social unrest in the Middle East and North Africa, many dancers are eager  to  travel to research, study and immerse themselves in  Oriental Dance.  If you're armed with  some knowledge about the places you'll be visiting  and  know what to expect  before and during your trip, you'll have a much better time.

 In this series, I'll cover everything from  keeping healthy and staying safe abroad to buying costumes; from cultural and social differences  to  breezing through security at  airports; from  communicating socially to haggling for a bargain.  

I learned all this stuff the hard way… but you won’t have to!

 After you’ve been studying our beautiful dance form  for a while, there may come a time when you want to travel to the places where belly dance originated. Whether you’re going to learn and do research or purely for fun, there are so many ways to visit The Middle East, North Africa and Central Asia that there is a trip for everyone. Your journey can be as luxurious- or as rustic–as you wish.

 Egypt and Turkey have numerous well-established belly dance festivals, and more are cropping up all the time, in places like Greece, Israel and Lebanon.

 Many American and European dance instructors offer belly dance tours, which are usually-but not always- based around a specific festival. You can also  sail on a luxury cruise with a set itinerary, or hike through the Atlas Mountains or Sahara Desert with no plan other than to explore. And many ex-patriot dancers living and working abroad open up their flats as mini-hostels  for visiting dancers. The possibilities are endless!

 When I look back on my very first trip Egypt in the early Nineties, I can’t believe I picked up and left the way that I did!

  I was a baby dancer with hardly any experience; absolutely obsessed with going to Cairo- nothing was gong to stop me! Because I wasn’t sure how long I was going to stay, I quit my job and told my family I’d be back in four to eight weeks. At that time, there was no internet or cell phones; in order to get an overseas phone line from Egypt to anywhere else in the world, even at Five Star hotels, you had to make a request at the front desk and wait around- sometimes for hours- until a line opened up and your call could be connected!

As my flight landed in Cairo, I hoped that the reservation I’d made- through the mail- had actually arrived at the hotel that I’d randomly picked out of a travel book!  I hadn’t anticipated that the signs would only be in Arabic, I had $300.00 in the pocket of my worn Levi’s, and though I had no contacts whatsoever in Egypt, but I knew I needed to see the Sphinx and The Pyramids. I had nothing but blind faith that I’d be able to find belly dancing…and I did!

These days, visiting the countries where belly dancing is indigenous is sooo much easier. But there are still many things you need to know that will make your trip run much more smoothly. 

 BEFORE YOU LEAVE

Passport & Visa

 In order to go on your dream trip, you’ll obviously need a passport. To gain entrance into most countries, your passport needs to be good for at least six months after your date of entry. In America, you can pick up an application at most U.S. Post Offices.   Send it in well in advance of your trip; it can take many weeks to process.

While you travel, keep your passport is in a convenient and safe place, somewhere you can get to easily. Depending on where you are, you may want to either carry your passport in a neck wallet concealed under your clothing (these are available on line or at stores that specialize in travel accoutrements) or keep your passport at the front desk of your hotel.

A good idea is to photocopy your passport, keeping the copy separate from the passport itself when you travel.  I keep a few photocopies tucked into pockets in my luggage.  You can also scan your passport and e-mail it to yourself.  That way you’ll always have the electronic copy.  Either of these options will not get you in and out of different countries, but will be of great help in the event your passport gets lost or stolen.

 If this happens, no matter where you are, report it immediately to the embassy for your country of origin, and a temporary passport will be issued to you.

Visas

 In some countries, your passport alone will get you in but in others, you’ll need a tourist visa. This is not usually a big deal; for example, in Egypt, you can purchase your visa as soon as you arrive in the airport, at the same kiosks where you can change money.

Vaccines

Before traveling to any exotic locale, find out if any immunizations are required, and make sure that all your vaccines (for example, tetanus or influenza shots) are up to date. Check on the Internet for travel advisories regarding epidemics or outbreaks.

 If you do need to get immunized, consult your doctor… And make sure to get any vaccines done at least two weeks before you travel in case you have a reaction, which can happen, though not often.

Travel Insurance

 Buying travel insurance is always a good idea in case of last minute cancellations due to some emergency or “Act Of God”. Depending on your coverage, it can also take care of foreign doctor and dentist visits, or covering a last minute flight back home. Travel insurance will also reimburse you for smaller things, such as the cost of a hotel room due to a flight cancellation, flight re-booking fees, or in case your luggage gets lost.

 Nowadays, with social unrest and political upheaval in the Middle East and North Africa, travel insurance is vital!

 You can purchase travel insurance on the Internet or through your travel agent.

What To Pack

 Almost every major airline now charges for checked bags, and each bag usually has a fifty-pound limit as well. Pack as lightly as possible. I usually bring a bare minimum amount of clothing, and check a nearly empty suitcase, which comes in handy for bringing back souvenirs…. and of course, costumes!

 On your return flight, pack your costumes (as many as will fit) into your carry-on bag. If anything gets lost when your bags are checked, it will be your easily replaceable street clothes.  In the past on trips to Egypt, I have even brought “disposable” items along- sneakers or walking shoes on their last legs, cheap rubber flip-flops, tourist-type T shirts, that sort of thing. You can give these items away before returning home, or as you go along. It will not only lighten your load, but many countries in the Middle East and North Africa are very poor, and people appreciate donations, which can always be put to good use. I once tipped a cab driver with a used blow dryer and some nail polish for his wife!

 As for what to bring on your tip to the Middle East or North Africa, remember that you will be traveling in predominantly Muslim countries and it’s imperative that  you  make sure to be respectful of the people you meet,  their religion and culture.

 That being said, unless you are entering a mosque (or visiting Saudi Arabia) you will probably not encounter a situation where you will absolutely need to cover your hair… but it never hurts to keep a scarf handy! 

Egypt’s leading industry is tourism, they’re used to tourists visiting from all over the world.  Places like Morocco and Tunisia have large cities that are very modern, though in rural areas and smaller villages, people dress in traditional clothes, the way they have for centuries.  Israel, Lebanon, Dubai and Turkey are extremely European, so many citizens not only “dress Western” but are also fashion forward!

No matter where you are going, bring hand washable clothing that can be layered, and comfy walking shoes for sightseeing.

 I suggest packing a lightweight jacket or sweater for cool mornings and evenings, sitting or sleeping in air conditioning on the plane, tour buses and in hotels. I bring a light pashmina scarf, which can be used in many ways, including covering up your head, arms and shoulders for modesty on the street, or for shielding you from the desert sun.

   Cargo pants or long shorts, jeans, t-shirts, sneakers, and sandals will all serve you well. Flowing ankle-length Indian skirts and long sleeved light cotton tops will come in handy and pack nicely.  Of course you will want to check out the belly dancers performing at nightclubs or major hotels, so bring a lightweight, knee-length jersey dress that can be dressed up with jewelry. If you will be at the seaside, on a cruise (whether down the Nile or through the Mediterranean) definitely bring a bathing suit, sunglasses, a hat, insect repellent and sun block!

Remember the 3-1-1 rules for carry on toiletries, and only bring whatever will fit in a quart-sized, clear plastic, zip-top bag. You only get one bag per passenger, and it needs to be placed in the screening bin at the airport.

Another good item to carry with you are disposable wet wipes. Take small travel size packets of Kleenex and definitely bring bottle of hand sanitizer. I always have these on hand when sightseeing, because it’s hard to tell what kind of restroom facilities you’ll run into…some are extremely primitive, we’re talkin’ holes in the ground!

  Health, Nutrition, Supplements And Medication

 Pack portable snack foods to take with you on your trip like trail mix, nuts, dried fruit, power bars, soups or noodles that can be made by adding boiling water.  These are really convenient – and often necessary when traveling! You’ll need something to sustain you  in case your flight gets delayed, or for day- long tours, lengthy bus or train rides, not to mention keeping your energy up at dance classes while you are jet-lagged! You may also want to bring along packets of a powdered energy/vitamin drink mix to add to bottled water for a quick burst of energy.

It’s always a good idea to carry small First Aid kit, including band-aids, anti-bacterial ointments, aspirin/pain relievers, antacids, and anti-diarrhea medications. Imodium is a fantastic over the counter remedy for stopping  “Pharaoh’s Revenge” so makes sure take some along with you. Acidophilus tablets or capsules are also good for the prevention of traveler’s diarrhea, and can lessen the severity of digestive problems. Taking it before you leave and throughout your trip will aid in maintaining the normal balance of flora and fauna in the intestines.

Pack any prescription medications you are taking in the original containers, along with a copy of the prescription, and possibly a note from your doctor; keep them in your carry on luggage.

Bring along extra feminine protection if you are used to wearing tampons; they are hard to find in many Muslim countries, ditto for birth control pills and condoms! And though most pharmacies are great, if you do take prescription birth control, definitely bring more than you think you will need, just in case.

If you wear contact lenses, bring extras or use disposables, and you’ll  totally want to keep a travel-sized bottle of re-wetting solution AND extra lenses in your purse while you are out and about. North Africa and The Middle East are very dry and sandy, and the desert climate can really irritate your contacts. You will NOT want to be stuck without spares!  Bring a pair of prescription glasses with you as well.

In all likelihood, the most common problems you’ll run into are sunburn, insect bites, blisters, exhaustion, and maybe a cold from the recycled air on the plane.  If you have prepared for these minor hazards in advance, you should be fine.

  You also need to know that sour stomach or "Pharoah's Revenge" is very common... so make double-sure you bring along some  Immodium  to combat  diarrhea.Though food poisoning does happen, it's more likely  that you're  feeling sick from the combination  of  unfamiliar foods and  the inevitable jet lag. Though  this  isn't at all fun, your symptoms will usually pass in a day or two, and  taking Immodium will  halt  any cramping and watery stools.  But when diarrhea is  accompanied  by chills  and fever,  you need to see a doctor, stat!

Most foreign pharmacies are excellent, with knowledgeable English speaking pharmacists and clerks, and they will often take care of you better than a physician can. Many hotels have a doctor on call at all times. If yours doesn’t, ask the concierge (or your friend, or host if you are staying at a private home) to call a general practitioner in the unlikely event you will need one.

*Part Two, "What To Expect When You Arrive"  will be coming up soon!