WHAT THE &%@*$# ARE YOU PUTTING ON YOUR FACE?

 Here’s a dirty little secret…

Did you know that most of your cosmetics and beauty tools  come with expiration dates? If you’re wondering why your face is breaking out constantly, why you are prone to eye infections  or  why a certain cream, powder or gel irritates your face, old beauty products just might be the culprit.

This is a list of commonly used beauty products and their life expectancy:

  FACE

 MASCARA AND  LIQUID, GEL  OR CAKE  EYELINER

 These products are good for three months, tops- because the mascara  or eyeliner is is wet and gets “contaminated” every time the brush goes into the tube then onto your eye and back into the tube, it  literally becomes a breeding ground for bacteria! You wouldn’t put the contents of a Petri dish on your eyes, right? Well,  that’s exactly what you’re doing  every time you use an out-dated liquid, gel or cream eye product!

I date all of mine with a Sharpie and toss them after three months.  Sure, it gets expensive….but  eye doctor appointments are even more expensive!

And please don’t ever  lend these products to anyone, even your bestie.

 EYELASH GLUE AND ADHESIVE

 If you keep the cap on tightly and store the glue in a cool, dark place, you could probably keep the glue up to  six months… but again- this stuff goes on your eyes! You can never be too careful. If it smells fishy or like bleach, get rid of it pronto!

FALSE EYELASHES

 Yes, darling, they can be re-used!   I’ve had some sets of lashes for months- they just need to be cared for properly. After each use, I pick the remaining glue off the band of the lash, then swab it with a Q-tip full of alcohol to kill any bugs or germs before storing the lashes in their original container, set into the tray they came in, so that they retain their shape.

  EYE AND LIP PENCILS AND CRAYONS

Eye and lip pencils  will last up to a year if  you care for them correctly. Make sure to sharpen the pencils  before every use- or at least once a week -to prevent  transferring bacteria to your eyes or mouth.  If you notice a textural or color change- particularly a weird white coloring at the tip of the pencil, get rid of it stat!

LIQUID OR  CREAM FOUNDATION , CONCEALERS AND CREAM BLUSH

Three to six months, depending on whether you use your ( clean) fingers,  or  a disposeable sponge to  apply it. Every time the sponge touches your face, it is transferring bacteria from your skin  right back to the product. Make sure to keep all of these containers tightly sealed, and stored in a cool, dry place.

 Definitely discard any liquid foundations that have separated, or any creamy make up item that smells funny.

POWDER EYESHADOW , FINISHING POWDER AND POWDER BLUSH

 Generally speaking, these products have a “life expectancy” of two years. You could probably use them a little beyond that, but the  texture will be different- older powders  will be more flakey and dry, and the color may be a little off.

LIPSTICK AND LIP GLOSS

 Lipstick can last up to two years, if  you take care of it properly.  Some gals like to store it in the refrigerator in the summer, to prevent melting and breakage.  Throw your lipsticks away if they smell icky or become discolored.  You can make an older lipstick “new” again  by slicing off the tip with a knife.  As for lip glosses, they will last up to a year- again, it’s the concept of liquid/gel as a breeding ground for  bugs and bacteria.

 SKIN CARE PRODUCTS AND FACE CREAMS

 Most over the counter skin care products  will last about six months to a year, though  if you’re an anti-aging slut ( like me!)  you’ll use them up way before there’s an expiration issue!

Any  products  that are  organic, "all natural", or those containing antioxidants ( like Vitamin E or C ) or those with  retinals  should definitely be stored away from sunlight. Again, if  your skin care creams  smell funky  or have gotten separated, lumpy or  thinner, just to be safe... throw them away!

MAKE UP BRUSHES AND COSMETIC SPONGES

Bacteria and sebaceous oils  can easily get  trapped in  make up sponges and brushes… which is bad for your tools and  even worse for your skin!

 I wash all my brushes at least once every two weeks in tepid water with mild soap or baby shampoo. To dry,  lay brushes flat on a soft, clean towel  so the bristles don't break or lose their shape. If you care for your brushes well,  they can last for years!

 Toss cosmetic sponges roughly once every month or so, or any time you notice them cracking or flaking.  Better yet, invest in the disposable kind!

  HAIR

BLOW DRYERS

 A  good blow dryer ought to last at the very least one to seven  years, depending on the make of the dryer, how often-or carelessly- you use it, if it is dropped, gets hair clogged in the vents, etc.

FLAT IRONS

 One to four years depending on use; the ceramic plates  and heating elements  on the flat iron are usually the first thing to go.

 HAIR BRUSHES

A good hairbrush can last for years- even a cheap one can- it just depends on how  you maintain it.  Make sure  to clean your brush regularly, by removing the hair from it, and swishing it around in a bath of hot water and mild detergent, then letting it dry naturally, before using it.

 MISCELLANEOUS

 MAKE UP REMOVERS

 Usually, these products are used up too quickly to go bad- but if you’ve opened a product , had it for a few months and it smells odd, do a little patch test on your wrist or inner elbow  to check for irritation before using it on your face!

As for make up wipes and towellettes, the liquid product in the package can tend to dry up rather quickly… say, two months. In order to keep mine fresh,  every time I use a wipe, I put the package back on the shelf in a different position- right side up, upside down or on it’s side- this will ensure that the towellettes stay saturated  with the remover product and easy-to-use.

HAND  AND BODY LOTION

 Since we tend to use an awful lot of these and they’re relatively inexpensive, expiration is not usually an issue.  Sealed in the container, they will last  about a year. After being opened, you’ll probably use the product up fairly quickly. But if you’ve had the lotion  for about six months, or it begins to smell off, get rid of  any unused portion.

SUNSCREEN

 Most sunscreens last for two to three years, and, unlike "regular" cosmetics,  many have an expiration date  printed right on the tube or bottle! This means that you can use them from one season into the next-yay! I always date my sunscreen with a sharpie pen, just to make sure I’m getting full coverage.

NAIL POLISH

 Though bacteria won’t really last -or reproduce-in nail polish because it’s a “hostile environment”, the polish itself  may lose color, separate or become gummy and tacky over time.  Most nail polishes have a shelf-life of about two years. They won’t harm you if they expire, but they may not go on well or look their best.

PORTABLE GLAMOUR: A DANCER'S GUIDE TO TRAVELLING IN STYLE

It's summer and the dance festival frenzy has already started...so my house is in complete chaos with a bunch of suitcases sitting around: some about to be packed, some full of stuff from my last event! My living room is like an obstacle course, there's so much crap laying around on the floor, but I just love the entire process of getting ready for dance festivals.

Since I've spent the better part of the past couple of decades jetting all over the world to perform and teach, I’ve learned to pack extremely well. Many of my sponsors have joked that I should teach a workshop on packing skills!

I used to drag “just in case” things along that never got used: extra costumes, glamorous dresses, blow-dryers, full-sized toiletries … until I wised up and realized that it wasn’t the dancing that was sending me to the chiropractor’s office, it was my heavy, unmanageable luggage!

Even if you don’t take trips at the rate that I do, packing lightly makes sense. If you are going by plane, and have your bag with you, there is zero chance of the airline losing it, and believe me, that happens way more than you would imagine! If your luggage disappears and your costume(s) and music are inside the lost bag, then you are up the creek without a paddle.

The key to a “great pack” is to determine what is absolutely necessary costume-wise, prop-wise, comfort-wise.

Usually, it’s impossible to fit everything into a carry-on bag, though I have done it pretty often! If you have multiple costume changes, are traveling with props, workshop essentials like notebooks, flyers, business cards or carrying any amount of merchandise or promo you probably WON’T fit it all into one suitcase.

In this case, make sure your essentials are in the carry-on itself; pack at least one costume, and music, so even if everything else gets lost you can still perform. You also may want to look into using door-to-door luggage services to ship an extra suitcase. These services tend to be more reliable than airlines, and guarantee delivery. They aren’t cheap, but it saves a lot of hassle and most airlines are now charging for checked bags anyway. You could also look into Fed-Exing or Priority Mailing a box of merch to yourself care of the front desk at the hotel where you will be staying. The concierge or manager at most hotel chains regularly deals with this sort of thing for their business clients.

Costumes

The first law of packing for dance events is: costumes and props take precedence over street clothes and class-wear.

We all know how insanely bulky costumes are, whether it’s a fully fringed cabaret extravaganza, a big retro evening gown or a metal-encrusted, tribal bra and belt with a zillion-yard circle skirt. Take a look at your favorite costumes and decide which ones are most portable… a few may not make the cut for use as “out of towners”.

Ideally, your travel costumes will look absolutely stunning onstage, but don’t need too much attention when pulled out of a suitcase. The newer style Egyptian and Turkish cabaret costumes perfect: they’re feather- weight, and many have built-in belts, making them less heavy, plus they’re usually made of synthetics, which are wrinkle-resistant.

Lots of costumes appropriate for burlesque or belly dance fusion are also highly packable: use bras and belts that are highly embellished, and simple pants or a flowing skirt. Tribal costumes will be more of a challenge, with the heavy jewelry and yardage involved. For traveling with these, you may want to use only your most amazing costume pieces and accessories, and concentrate on strong stage make-up and a great color palette as opposed to piling on mounds of gorgeous- but ridiculously heavy - accessories. It’s your call!

Pack your costumes cleverly then fill in around them. Roll skirts up small and tight and call or email ahead to make sure the place you’re staying has an iron. Ditto for a blow dryer. These amenities are usually standard everywhere you go.

Headpieces or hair-flowers can be packed in Tupperware or utility boxes, cushioned by bra pads, a folded or rolled veil. Wigs or falls can go in a flat disposable casserole tray; pack earrings bracelets or necklaces in plastic bags and lay them on the bottom, before you put you hairpiece in. Encase dance or street shoes in recycled grocery bags; tuck them into the corners of your bag.

I pack my costume, and all the accessories, my performance CD, veil and zills in a two-gallon plastic freezer bag. At my destination, I know all essential parts are together, not stuck into some random compartment of my suitcase, or left out where it might be forgotten in a hotel room. Plastic bags also protect your costume. As long as your costume is clean and dry before it goes into the bag, it’ll be fine.

Once I had a suitcase sit on the tarmac at London’s Heathrow Airport for 45 minutes in a raging rainstorm. By the time it got into the terminal, the whole bag was soaked through. Boy, was I glad my costumes and regular clothes were encased in plastic bags- they were fine. As for the suitcase, it took almost two days of sitting in front of an English radiator to dry out!

Props

Air travel with props can sometimes be tricky.

If you are flying with swords, know that there’s no way in hell they’ll make it into the passenger cabin.

No amount of begging (“ But it’s only a stage-prop!”) will help get it on board with you. I arrange to borrow swords for my appearances in foreign countries, it just makes things easier.

Domestically, you will want to protect your sword by putting it in a well-padded container with “FRAGILE” marked all over the outside. I use a hard guitar-case with a padded interior for sword transport; some dancers use rifle cases. I include business cards, a bio, and photocopies of myself using the sword onstage, just in case an over-zealous TSA agent who thinks my swords are actual weapons opens the case!

Though shamadans can be usually be disassembled or collapsed (always keep a screw driver and wrench with you!) they will probably still be too large to bring on board and will have to be checked. Pack it in a well-padded box, labeled “fragile”, and if it has chains with crystals attached, wrap those in bubble wrap individually before packing the rest of the candelabrum.

Canes, Isis Wings and large Sally Rand feather fans can be brought into the cabin on a plane, but call ahead to check the dimensions for the over-head storage bins, and make sure your items fit…you definitely don’t want to check these fragile things at the last minute. Many feather fans, or fan-veils or Isis Wings will fit into a carry-on bag.

I slip all my folding hand fans and even smaller Sally Rand feather fans into hard cardboard document tubes which can be purchased at an office supply store -this will keep them from getting their staves cracked or bent. When you get to your destination, open the wings or your fan veils and steam them in a bathroom with the shower running, to let wrinkles work their way out…. of course, this is not recommended for feather fans! Larger Sally Rand feather fans will fit nicely into a long mailer tube or office-store box- but again, it will need to be checked- pad it well!

Smaller brass trays and pots or jugs for folkloric dance can fit easily into a suitcase, protect them with clothes and costume pieces.

Street Clothes, Travel Togs And Classroom Wear

Dress in layers because you can be sure that planes , airports, hotel rooms and dance festival locations are either too warm or too cold. I almost always wear a tank with a light, long sleeved t-shirt over it, and a hoodie or wrap sweater. Bring a large pashmina -type wrap, which can be worn as a scarf, evening cover-up, tied over sweats as a skirt, or used in lieu of a scuzzy airline blanket. On planes I wear Ugg boots for travel because they are comfy and practical: they slip off easily for TSA security checks; they’re perfect for those mad dashes when you’re making a connection, and they are not bulky in a suitcase! I wear the same pants for travel as I do dance classes- jeans are another item that probably won’t be worn all weekend long!

In your dance classes, no one is going to notice or care if you wear the same pair of dance pants, and you can tuck in a spare pair of stretchy leggings, they can pinch-hit as pajama bottoms, and look great under dresses or skirts. Add in a couple of tanks or crop-tops, and you’ll be good to go for your workshops.

If you need a veil and zills, or gloves, stockings or heels for your classes, use the same ones you’ll be using for your performance. A lightweight cover-up will get you to and from the stage when you are performing, and doubles as a robe in your hotel room. Bring a pair of flip-flops to use for street wear, bedroom slippers or protecting your feet backstage.

Want to look pretty for evening? Think “little black dress” preferably in a jersey or synthetic knit. They roll up small and won’t wrinkle. Add earrings, a hair flower and heels and it actually looks like you made an effort!

Before You Go

I have a special “out of town” gig checklist on my computer, with all my travel necessities, costumes and props listed on it. Make one for yourself and refer to it, checking each item off as you pack it.

A day or two before a trip, I sort through my make-up bag, whittling it down to as few items as possible. I keep all my dry items like powder shadows and pencils, false eyelashes, brushes, etc., in the make-up case and fill a snack-sized baggie with lipsticks, gloss, eyeliner, eyelash glue, mascara- any of the “no-no” TSA items. That smaller bag goes into my allotted quart baggie- along with travel-sized toothpaste, contact lens solution, and moisturizer. Body glitter and a couple of extra sets of false eyelashes go into the bag holding my costumes.

Do a “dummy check” and make sure once again that you have everything essential for your trip, then edit mercilessly.

Pack a couple of snack-baggies full of raw nuts, dried fruit, or trail mix- and a protein bar or two. The stuff available at airports, or the “food for purchase” on planes is usually over-priced not to mention salty…can you say “bloated”?

Try to get as much sleep as possible before you leave, because you probably won’t get it at your event!

Make sure to fill a pocket of your bag with travel-sized trouble –shooters: make-up remover wipes, pain relief tables, band-aids, safety pins, a small sewing kit, a set of bra pads and feminine protection.

In Transit

Obey the “quart baggie” rule- it will get you through the airport security lines much faster. On the plane, I put the liquid items I placed into the quart baggie back into my cosmetic bag where they belong.

Before entering the airport, remove any metal objects from your person- including sunglasses, belt-buckles, and jewelry or hair accessories with metal clips and put them in your carry-on. This will save you from walking through the metal detector more than once. Keep your ID and boarding pass out so you won’t have to dig for it.

Buy a couple of bottles of water after passing through security- one to drink while you’re in the air, one for when you land. Yeah, they're expensive, but flying dehydrates you- this will keep you feeling refreshed and it’s good for you! Last but not least: fly with a clean, moisturized face, and before landing, freshen up and add a little bit of blush, mascara and lip gloss.

Special Destinations

Attending a dance retreat on a tropical island? Performing somewhere very cold? Off to a festival in Las Vegas or Egypt?

Check weather reports for your destination the night before and the morning you are leaving. Look at the ten-day forecast and see what the weather will be like. Bring along appropriate articles, like coats, waterproof boots, your bikini, bug spray or an umbrella.

If you going to Egypt or any other Muslim country, bring modest clothes that pack well and will keep you cool, but will also cover you up. I have found that long cotton Indian wrap skirts are great, paper-thin, loose, long sleeved T-shirts or gauze shirts to layer over tanks, and a lightweight, non-form-fitting jacket should serve you well.

Bring sneakers or comfy walking shoes, you might feel dorky wearing them, but you'll need them.

When going to Egypt, Turkey or any exotic belly dance land of origin, do what seasoned dancers do- check an empty or almost- empty suitcase to use for bringing back costumes and souvenirs. On the way back, put as many of the costumes you bought as you can fit in your carry-on, and pack your street-clothes in the checked bag.That way, if something gets lost or stolen (this happens way more than anyone would like to think!) it will be your easily replaceable street clothes, not a custom-made stunner from Eman Zaki, Bella or Hannan!

With efficient packing, you can look amazing wherever you go…both on-and off-stage!

** This post originally appeared on June 16, 2009

HAIR TODAY, GONE TOMORROW: FAUX HAIR FOR STAGE WEAR

Synthetic hair can change your performance look in the blink of an eye, and you definitely don’t need to break the bank by investing in a few pieces.


We are so lucky to have a smorgasbord of wigs, falls, fantasy hair pieces, faux- dreadlocks and extensions available to us!


Hairpieces made of human hair are expensive, and are certainly worth it, if you can afford them. But if you can’t, synthetic hair is the way to go. If you are wearing faux hair on stage, and it won’t be seen up close, look for super cheap deals at wig stores and beauty supply shops, as well as swap meets and on the Internet.


There are so many inexpensive and believable…or completely, fabulously fantastic on-purpose- fake-looking hair pieces around that you pretty much owe it to yourself to experiment with them. We’re talking white-blonde finger-waved 1920’s bobs, pastel pink page boy flips, luxuriously long mermaid hair, falls with highlights and lowlights, and rainbow fantasy braids, among many, many other styles.



There is something for everyone- beyond your wildest dreams. Get thee to a wig store and spend an afternoon trying on different looks!


If you are wearing a wig with a full cap, the best way to keep it stable on your head is to make small pin curls in your own hair, pin them down with bobby pins, and then weave larger bobby pins through the lace of the wig cap and into the curls in your own hair.


Falls attach onto the head in many ways. There are some that are half-wigs with combs that hook into the hair, and ponytail falls that have a drawstring which gets tightened around your own hair. Some falls come mounted on a banana-clip.


If you have a lot of hair, but want to use a ponytail fall, use this trick…that I most probably didn’t invent, but am giving myself the credit for it, anyway! Pull your hair up into a tight bun on the crown of your head, towards the back. Secure it well with bobby pins then put the fall over the bun you’ve made in your own hair. This will give a really awesome bouffant Sixties-type look, like Sharon Tate wore in “Valley Of The Dolls” or like a James Bond Girl It will give the appearance that you teased an sprayed your hair for a cool retro ‘do, but without doing any damage to your own tresses.


Dreads and braids can also be clipped in by claw-clamps or sewn on to elastics that fit around your own hair. These days they even have fake bangs that clip in to the hair above the forehead!


Whatever kind of faux hair you use, make sure you really anchor it to your head, and definitely rehearse with it to make sure it’s stable and “stage-proof”.



Photo: Princess Farhana as "Belly Parton" fooling around at the end of a photo session with Dusti Cunningham

PRETTY, PRETTY!!

Hello!

The post from June 13 featured behind-the-scenes photos from the "Bombshell" stage make-up DVD shoot that were taken by me. As in, taken slap-dash on my phone, between takes!

But the pictures in this post, taken by our on-set photographer Dusti Cunningham, are more representative of what the DVD will actually look like...just sayin'. These are the AFTER shots, taken after the make-up tutorial segment was completed. All the models appear on camera with bare faces to begin with.

From top to bottom:

Belly dancer & yoga instructor Jennelah modeling her AFTER "Swingin' Sixties" look, designed by Princess Farhana

Belly dancer and Burlesque performer Jewel modeling her AFTER "Retro Pin Up" look, designed by DeVilla

Belly dancer Lapis modeling her AFTER "Fantasy" look designed by Princess Farhana

All photos by Dusti Cunningham, www.dusticunningham.com