LOOK GLOWING AND PRETTY: ON STAGE AND OFF STAGE…AT ANY AGE!

 

I Drive Fifty-Five! Photo by Maharet Hughes, Costume: Hallah Moustafa

Just in case you didn’t realize, I am A Woman Of A Certain Age. Specifically, that age is fifty-five…and I’m really and truly proud of every damn year! I haven’t yet dabbled in “having work done”, but once in a while I think about it.  And sometimes I  miss my baby face of yore… the same face that, as a younger woman, I insanely used to think was “fat” and  puffy”.  DUH!  Believe me, now I’m eternally grateful I had all that collagen- in fact, I now wish I could’ve put it into a bank!

I’m going to share a few  of my favorite  make up and skin-care tips and products  that’ll work whether you’re performing or just on your way to dance class. These are small cosmetic tweaks  which’ll make you look refreshed and gorgeous no matter how  young or old you are!  These tricks will keep you looking dewy and  rested when you are tired…and since The Holidays are just about upon us, they’re also a great camouflage for those mornings when you’re lookin’ just a teensy bit hungover!

Eyes And Brows

 A super-fab trick for making your  eyes look brighter, is to use dark blue liner... as opposed to black or brown.  I use navy blue to rim my eyes both in “real life” and on the stage. Blue liner  plays an optical trick, making the whites of your eyes really alabaster-white.  For every day wear, I use a power shadow  for this, cause it also makes the eyes look softer than they do with a harsh liquid or gel liner.  For stage, I apply the dark blue powder shadow first, then go over them with a black gel liner, which adds definition while retaining the softer look of the powder.

For every day wear, I use a couple of coast of mascara- always!  I love Rimmel’s ScandalEyes Retro Glam Mascara , it’s absolutely telescopic…and my lashes need all the help they can get! For stage, of course I use false lashes, the bigger and thicker, the better!

 

 As we age, our brows tend to thin out- or maybe you’ve just over-plucked them. Lush brows are important on stage or off… they frame our eyes, plus they make those  of us who are Of A Certain Age look younger . Right now, thicker brows are in vogue, and the best way to get them-and also have them look natural, is by using powders, as opposed to pencils.  For an every day look, I always use a matte powder. You don’t need to buy a fancy brow powder, though there are many on the market that are reasonably priced. I  use a stiff angled brush and a mix of regular matte  brown and black eyeshadow.  First, comb your brows with a spoolie brush, or an old, clean tooth brush. Then use the angled brush to apply  the powder  in short, swift strokes, going in the direction you’ve combed your brows, the way they grow-or have been trained to grow naturally. If you make a boo-boo just  take a Q-tip and erase it, and start again.

 By the way, I always do my eyes first, then clean up the migrating pigments underneath, before applying the rest of my face make up. It prevents the dreaded raccoon eyes.

Foundations And Face Make Up

 Because we dancers wear so much make up onstage, many of us don’t use foundation for  every day wear.   But many of us have uneven skin tones, blemishes or get chapped skin during the colder months that leads to redness or a mottled, ruddy complexion.

 Even if you prefer not to wear foundation for  every day, here’s  a little trick that will peel away the years. Dip a flat but slightly  thick  and fluffy brush into  a concealer that matches your skin tone, lightly feathering the product over all the small  lines and red  areas ( we all have them) around your nose. This one thing will make you look  at least a few years younger-guaranteed! Or if you’re in the under-thirty age bracket, it’ll just make you look more fabulous!  Do the same thing on   any red spots or pimples,  again  carefully blending it into the skin.  This will even out your complexion, without the heavy  full-foundation feeling  we sometimes get, as though we were wearing  a mask.

On stage,  no matter how young or old you are, you need to wear foundation- because it will make your complexion appear poreless and perfect.  Those sheer, “natural look” formulas aren’t strong enough- you need a very opaque, full-coverage type of foundation to get the desired effect. Choose your  foundation color by matching it as closely to your own skin tone as possible. Try foundation samples on the inside of your arm because the  skin tone there  is very close to the color of your face.

Often, performers will use a foundation that is a shade or two darker than their natural skin tone, because it makes their face appear brighter, more robust and healthy under the harsh stage lights.  I myself use this trick, and it works every time! And I’m never without a primer under my foundation, either!

To apply foundation, use the edge of a sponge or clean fingers to daub the make-up onto your face, blending it well, making sure to extend the shade onto the sides of the cheeks, chin, and onto the neck, so you don’t have a line where the foundation ends and your natural skin tone begins. Press a similarly toned or translucent powder onto your face to set the foundation, and then it’s time for…

Cheeks

When you do your blush, make sure to pick a color that goes with your skin tone, and won’t make you look sallow or unhealthy. Corals are great for those with olive undertones ,  and if you’re pale, a true blue-pink or berry tone will work great. For gals who are very dark, magentas or a blue red looks great, either onstage or off. A word to the wise: in order to look natural – and not look  odd in photos, always use matte- never pearly-colors for blush.


 To  ( seriously) look five or ten years younger, apply blush to the apples of your cheeks only. If you go under the apples, you’ll look like an 80’s Nagel painting…a hawt look sometimes, but definitely  not natural and also kind of dated, at least for day-to-day wear.

 Find the apples  of your cheeks by smiling, then load  a domed blush brush up with powder, blow or tap off the excess product and  gently brush the product into the center of the apples, then  curve it slightly up, in a “C” shape towards your temples.  For stage there’s almost no such thing as too much blush,  but if you feel like you’ve applied  a bit too much color for “real life”,  gently blend the blush with a dry cosmetic sponge or just tone it down a little  with some translucent loose powder.

As for winter time make up, one of the problems most of us have is that our summer tans are fading. Check the foundation you’ve been using  to be sure that the shade still matches your skin tone. You might want to mix two colors together, so you can lighten or darken the current  color you are using to match your “new”  seasonal skin tone. For pale  or fair gals, bronzer might be in order…and you can find great, inexpensive ones at the drug store! E.L.F  Studio Contouring Blush And Bronze is only about four bucks and comes in a wide variety of shades.  If you want to go a little higher-end, MAC Bronzing Powder is the bomb. For bronzers, make sure to use them sparingly, since you are no loner tan; take a large fluffy brush , and lightly go over the outside contours of your face: cheek bones, temples, jaw line, then  fluff some across the bridge of your nose. This will give you a healthy and subtle sun-kissed glow, and extend  the remnants of your summer color.

Lips

 For stage, and for every day life, if I’m going with a red lipstick, I make sure it’s a blue red , not an orange red. The blue-red gives the same effect with our teeth as  the blue eyeliner I mentioned above… it makes anyone’s teeth truly appear pearly white!  And, as we age, our teeth always- no matter what our habits- tend to become a bit more yellow. This optical illusion works  wonders to counteract that dingy tone, believe me!

Onstage, I am a nut with lip-liner; I go for the full Joan Crawford Effect by over-lining my lips almost a quarter inch outside their natural  parameters.  From the stage, under hot lights, this is another very  anti-aging optical illusion, because as we get older, our lips lose collagen and become thinner and less plump.

 Of course, you can’t really get away with this  in very day life without looking like a bag lady!  For  my “off duty” look,  I  lightly line my lips just outside the natural guide-lines  with a flesh-toned pencil ( I like to use  # 666 by Wet ‘N’ Wild ) pick a subtle peach shade or light  blue-pink color  of lipstick or gloss to use inside the faint lines I’ve drawn.

Skin Care

During the winter, our skin gets dry from  the cold and wind and also from indoor heating. Moisturizing is necessary, even more than it it is in warmer months! As for  moisturizers, I love  to go natural, and Atomic Cosmetics/ Xerion Skin Science  has  fantastic products that are all natural! The CEO- and the mad doctor behind this company- is the super-cute, super-smart Jennifer Dietrich, a gorgeous pin-up model and chemist with more  than a decade of scientific study under her patent leather waist-cinching belt!

Gorgeous Dr. Jen Dietrich of Atomic Cosmetics and Xerion Skin Science

  Along with a mind-boggling line up of  lipsticks, blushes and eye shadows, Jen has  created some incredibly terrific skin  care products too. I absolutely adore her  anti-aging eye cream The New 20 , it’s so velvety and scrumptious  that I slather it all over my face!  She also makes  City Skin , an anti-aging serum,  a superb Rosewater Facial Toner and a wonderful primer that’ll keep your face looking poreless, ( with or without make up)  called  Optimus Primer.

About once or twice a week, I use  a scrub to exfoliate my face. There are tons of products you can buy, but an easy  ( and cheap!) home made scrub will do the trick, without causing irritation.

 In a bowl, combine  1 tablespoon of dry oatmeal with ¼ teaspoon of table salt- any kind will do. Add a teaspoon of water , or if your skin is very dry,  use olive oil instead. Rub it into your skin  very carefully with your fingers in circular motions, going upwards. Make sure not to drag or pull your skin. Then let the  paste sit on your face for about ten minutes, and rinse it off with tepid water.

 After this scrub, I apply  natural coconut oil  to my face.  You can purchase a large bottle of coconut oil at any health food store- it’s great for cooking too. But when used on the skin, it draws moisture to you and seals it in, without leaving you feeling greasy and gross…plus it smells nice.

Here’s another natural,  homemade skin scrub  that is super easy to make and use:

 Combine 1 cup coconut oil  or sweet almond oil, if you prefer, with one cup of sugar. Mix it well in a bowl, and scoop it out with your hands, scrubbing your  face and entire body down before you step into the shower. This stuff works like a miracle!  Trust me, your  skin will feel like a toddler’s.

   Have fun playing with  these colors, products and ideas…and looking cute to boot!

#

 My instructional  make up  double-disc DVD Bombshell: Dramatic Make Up For The Stage, Photos And Glamourous  Occasions   makes a great holiday gift!  Get it – and The Belly Dance Handbook- here:

 

http://princessfarhana.net/

Order Atomic Cosmetics and Xeriox Skin Science Products:

www.colorsthatgoboom.com/

 Contribute to the Atomic Cosmetics  Go Fund Me Campaign  ( and get rewards!) here: http://www.gofundme.com/ftvozs

MY FAVORITE MAKE UP PRODUCTS OF 2012...SO FAR

In December 2011, I made a list of my favorite beauty products, from cosmetics and stage make up to hair, nail and hygiene items. Many of you have been requesting a similar list for this year… so I made a new list of some recent faves of mine, all with mini-reviews.

I absolutely love all the products listed below, and in most cases, also included links so you can either purchase them for yourself, or read what others have to say about them!

Here ya go:

MAC Lipstick in CB96

I’ve been in love with this color for years; I’ve been through countless tubes of it. If you want to try the fad for coral lipstick but keep finding shades that are too “grandma”- looking or too chalky, give this shade a whirl. Apply it lightly, blot and finish with a clear gloss, and you’ll have a pleasing, coral-esque lip color, flattering for a range of complexions from very fair to pretty dark.

If you’re looking for a really zingy stage lip, this product delivers! It gives a rich, dimensional, two-toned color (golden apricot/ deep burnt orange) with a hyper-pearlized effect. Out line it with a deep red lip pencil, and it won’t even look orange, it just shapes your lips in a magic way, shimmering where your lips should be plump. Can’t say enough about how great this shade is!

e.l.f. Studio Make Up Remover Pen

This little corrector pen is an indispensable- and really portable- tool for fixing make up glitches one the go- whether you’re creating a face backstage, or just touching up on a date! It is a neat and precise way to fix things like powder shadows migrating to the under-eye area, or wiggly, meandering eyeliner jobs, without swabbing the whole area and starting from scratch. Amazing!

Ben Nye Lumiere Grande Color Eye Shadows

These eye shadows are the secret weapon behind my outrageously colorful stage make up. Silky and luminescent, pearly and gorgeous, they go on wet or dry and blend well to look like a hyper-pigmented watercolor painting on your eyes. Apply them dry for a smoky look, or apply them wet (use a damp brush with water) for a bold stage eye that stays put throughout multiple shows-and-sweat during the course of an evening. You can also use them as liner- they’re that versatile. Lumiere Grande shadows are available singly, or in palettes of six or twelve. They’re more expensive than drugstore shadows, but way cheaper than some higher-end shadows that don’t perform nearly as well… and they are worth every cent you spend on them! I own these in every color they make, and have used them for the past fifteen or so years.

Lumiere Grande Colour ben nye Ice

Olay Regenerist Regenerating Serum

I’m no spring chicken, but this stuff makes my skin look dewy and feel as soft as a baby’s behind! I adore this serum- it’s full of amino peptides and vitamin B3, it’s fragrance free, and absorbs quickly. After the short amount of time it takes to sink into the skin, it also acts as a great primer for foundation, to keep it from creasing. Let’s put it this way: I can’t live without this stuff! You can get this at almost any drugstore-anywhwere!

Body Fantasies Fragrance by Parfums De Coeur in Cotton Candy Fantasy

Everyone always tells me how yummy I smell when I come on or off stage, and ask what my sweet, light fragrance is… because it smells like cotton candy.

I always tell them “Aw… it’s just my stripper spray!”

I call it that because this stuff is about $3.99 for a big bottle. Actually, I think it’s probably aimed at tweens and pre-tens, but I can’t live without it. This spray is light, non-oily, and the fragrance is sweet but not cloying or over-powering. It feels fresh when it’s on, and the scent doesn’t even bother my hyper-scent-sensitive boyfriend…. plus you can buy it at any drug store. I get travel-sized misters and fill them from the large bottle, then pop one in every dance or gig bag I own, so I can always keep smelling like (pick your analogy) a 1980’s stripper or Tinkerbelle! Body Fantasies Body Spray for Women, Cotton Candy Fantasy Fragrance, 8 Ounce

Sonia Kashuk Core Tools, Brush Sets and Retractable Tools

Sonia Kashuk makes fantastic make up brushes- everything from domed blush brushes to tiny, bent (for accuracy) eyeliner brushes. They are durable and comparable to much more expensive brushes, plus they’re available at Target! Her brush sets are fabulous too- she has a purse-sized set, various travel collections, and a set made just for the eyes. Can’t beat these brushes unless you’re planning on spending a lot more!

Burt’s Bees Tinted Lip Balm

Oh…. these are genius! Not only are they all natural, and will feel silky and wonderful on your parched lips, they come in a variety of beautiful colors, with a slight pearly sheen. They’re slick but not gooey, and they taste fresh and pepper-minty. My fave shades are (in no particular order) Rose, Champagne, and Watermelon. Wear them to repair chapped lips while looking lovely. Then you can line your lips with…

Wet ‘N’Wild Icon Lipliner Pencil in Brandywine 666

This might be the only time 666 stand for anything non-Satanic!

For years, this shade has been the ne plus ultra of natural-look lip-liners. Whether you line your lips just on the inside or slightly over the outside, this shade makes your mouth look plump and naturally gorgeous- it makes you look as though you’ve had “work” done… but not in a trout-pout way. The pencil is the perfect texture- not too waxy, not too hard, and glides on well, and the color works for just about everybody. This color is almost ALWAYS sold out at drugstores, so you can order it online here: Wet 'n' Wild Creme Lipliner Pencil, Brandy Wine 666

Rom Deussen Glitter Raks Cosmetic Glitter

Dancer and Glitter Mistress Rom Deussen has a line of dancer-designed cosmetic glitter, the proceeds of which all go to benefit various charities! You may already be familiar with her extremely popular Eye Kandy Glitter, but these are custom mixes which look amazing on stage, and the money they make all goes to a worthy cause! My own mix , Psychedelic Sunset, benefits Voice Of Roma, which is a world-wide foundation for the Rom or Gypsy people, Rachel Brice, Asharah and Tempest have all designed colors, too. www.romdeussen.com/glitter_raks.html

PERFORMANCE PRETTY: CARING FOR YOUR SKIN

Apply make up. Sweat, powder. Sweat, powder. Sweat, powder. Sweat Powder. Sweat, powder. Sweat, powder. Sweat, powder. Remove make up. Moisturize. Repeat.

For years, this has been a daily routine for me.

Dancers skin takes just as much of a beating as our bodies. We sweat our way through rehearsals, eat on the go, and don’t sleep enough or drink as much water as we should. Constant performance also requires constant stage make up…which leads to touch-ups done over sweaty skin…which leads to the perfect storm for:

Irritated, inflamed skin

Blemishes and outbreaks

Extreme dryness or oiliness

Water retention and puffiness


So, how do we combat this? Everyone’s skin is different, and we all have our own skin care rituals. But there are certain things every dancer can do to improve the health of your skin…and your body in general!


Take It Off!
Make sure to remove every trace of make up before going to bed; on performance days and on the days you’re not onstage. Leftover traces of make up on your skin can clog your pores. Leftover make up-not to mention glitter- around your eyes can cause irritation and infection! Plus, your skin really needs a chance to breathe; the more foundation, powder, colored shadows and blushes you use, you are literally suffocating your face…. so this stuff all needs to come off. How you get it off is your call- there are multitudes of make up removers on the market today, everything from pre-moistened pads and towelettes, creams, lotions and liquid removers that are either oil-based or non-oily. Some people like to use more natural make up removers, such as olive oil, and in the old days, performers basically used two things: Albolene cream or Crisco- yes, lard!

Make Up Removal Technique
No matter what kind of make up remover you use, never scrub it onto your face. This will cause irritation (especially if you use glitter on your face- which can actually make microscopic cuts in the surface of your skin) and will eventually encourage wrinkles to form.

The kindest way to remove your make up is to either spread the pad or towelette over your face, or apply your cream, lotion of liquid remover, and then let it sit for a few seconds- I usually count to thirty- before gently swabbing up the make up. This allows the remover to work on the pigments and products, and makes removal far easier.


Cleansing
I can’t tell you what works for cleansing your skin, since everybody is different, but I can tell you what works for me. After I remove my makeup, I cleanse my skin completely. My skin is combination, meaning it is dry in certain places, and oilier in others. It’s also sensitive- I tend to get red and flakey pretty easily. After a gig, I clean my skin with either Dove or Ivory Soap, and alternate these with a gentle cleanser. In the morning when I wake up, I don’t use soap or cleaner at all just lukewarm water, followed by very cold water. After that, I moisturize, let it seep in, apply my sun block, like a religious fanatic, and I’m good to go.

Your dermatologist may be able to recommend a cleansing product for you, or just test some out on your own. Plain old soap and water works fine for some people, for other’s, it’s too irritating and a mild cleanser might work better.

No matter what you use, keep your skin clean!


Keep Your Beauty Tools in Tip Top Shape
No matter how anal you are about taking off your make up, if you don’t keep your tools clean, you will basically be applying bacteria directly onto your skin. Cosmetic brushes and applicators are always full of old product, and because they are in direct contact with your skin, that means they’re always full of oils and dead skin flakes, which makes them a perfect breeding ground for germs! If it sounds gross, it is… so clean your tools regularly!

I wash all my brushes at least once a week thoroughly with soap and hot water. I use either baby shampoo or mild dish washing liquid. I swish the brushes around in the soapy water, and work them gently with my fingers, to get all the product-and soap- out of the bristles. I lay them flat to dry on a clean towel, and with my fingers, form the bristles into shape.

If you are traveling or doing multiple gigs in a row, you can do a quick-fix on-the-spot cleaning by spraying the bristles with alcohol and drying them with a tissue, or you can swipe the brush against a make up remover wipe.

I date my mascara tubes on the bottom with a Sharpie pen… once they’ve been around for three months, I toss them- because mascara is wet, and because it goes on the eyes, it’s a magnet for bacteria. You can never be too careful about this!

Replace your powder puffs or foundation sponges about once a week. Again, they’re full of germs and oil from your skin, so if you’re using an old puff or sponge, you’re just putting all that bacteria right onto your face!

Never lend your cosmetic tools to anyone- it’s the law.


Hydrate Your Skin
There us no way you can be too obsessive about drinking a lot of water. Water is one of the best- and least expensive- things you can do to improve your skin, and your health in general. Dehydrated skin looks dull, dry, flakey, and often appears bloated! Water retention is one of the things that cause facial bloating; the reason your skin appears puffy is because it is retaining water- because it doesn’t have enough! Everyone has heard the recommendation for drinking eight glasses of water a day…and it’s not an urban legend. Drinking this amount- which is equal to about a liter and a half of water- will help your kidneys clear urea, sodium and other toxins from your body. Water keeps you alert and functional during classes and rehearsals. It will also keep your skin looking dewy and glowing. As dancers who sweat profusely, we need even more. Carry water with you at all times, and make sure you have an adequate amount at a show. Even though most venues provide water in the dressing room, there usually isn’t ever enough…so keep a small bottle in your gig bag, just in case.

If you are really working out, you may also want to try water that has electrolytes added; this will not only keep your skin pretty, it will help prevent your muscles from cramping during a tough class or rehearsal. I avoid sugary sports drinks with electrolytes- aside from the fact that it adds empty calories; sugar is terrible for your skin.


Feed Your Skin From The Outside In
After cleansing your skin, pat it dry and replenish it with moisturizer. The type you use is up to you, I myself favor Neutrogena and Oil Of Olay products, they seem to work well for me, but they may not for you.

If you are older, you may be experimenting with anti-wrinkle formulas and retinols. If you have never used these products before, my advice is to go slowly. Some of these products can be very irritating to your skin before the benefits start showing. Ease into your retinoid use. If I am using a retinoid product, and the directions are to apply it every evening, at first I’ll go for every other night, to see how my skin reacts. If I don’t get too red or blotchy, then I’ll move up to every night, but I keep monitoring the situation, and I do skip nights, too.

Always use sun block; an SPF of 30 or above is best. This is essential if you are using retinoids, which make your skin photosensitive, but even if you don’t use retinoids, the sun can damage your skin. You can’t be too careful about the sun!


Feed Your Skin From The Inside Out
You probably already know this, but whatever you eat is reflected in your skin, so making sure to eat a well-balanced diet is imperative.

Inflammation is one of the prime causes of acne, by triggering cells to clog your pores, so eating foods rich in EFAs (the essential fatty acids Omega 3 and Omega 6) will combat inflammation, and also actually prevent wrinkles…and help heal your dance injuries, too! Some foods that are rich in EFAs are flaxseed, almonds, walnuts, hazelnuts, soybeans, and in salmon, mackerel and tuna. I am not a fan of fish, so I add flaxseed to my oatmeal, yogurt and salads, and eat nuts as a pick-me-up during class or rehearsal.

Your body in general- but especially your skin- needs fats to look good and function well. I’m talking about healthy fats, like you’d find in avocados or in olive oil. Don’t negate them from your diet or your skin will show it.

Many foods are rich in antioxidants (Vitamins A, some of the B vitamins, C and E plus the minerals magnesium, zinc and selenium) that destroy the free radicals in our system.

The collagen in our skin, which keeps our complexions looking young, plump, and elastic, is extremely affected by free radical damage. The older you get, the less collagen you have in general…so eat to keep your collagen healthy and functional, matter what age you are! Highly colored, un-cooked fruits and veggies are loaded with antioxidants. Just some of them are all types of berries, carrots, broccoli, leafy greens like spinach and kale, raisins, peppers, sweet potatoes and tomatoes. You can never have too much of any of these. Eat raw fruit and veggies daily, and throw them into whatever else you are eating, too. I like to include berries in with my yoghurt and cereals, but I also eat them aloe as snack or put them into my salads. I am a kale junkie- I eat it all the time. It’s amazing raw in a salad or lightly steamed, and every morning I also throw in a few leaves or a couple of handfuls of the raw, pre-packaged variety into my fruit smoothies. It will turn the smoothie a sickly shade of avocado green, but you won’t even taste it!


Quick Fixes
Here are some “emergency tactics” that you can use on days you have gigs.

If you notice a pimple developing the evening before a show and don’t have any commercial spot treatments on hand to use, try a dab of toothpaste on the blemish and leave it on overnight. It seems to dry out the pimple, and reduce it in size. I’m not sure why it works, but it does!

If that blemish is still angry and red on the day of your show, apply a little Visine or some other kind of eye drop that reduces redness directly onto the pimple. This really reduces the redness and inflammation, if only temporarily.

I have hay fever and allergies and my eyes are constantly puffy in spring and early fall. My friend Maharet taught me to thinly slice potatoes and put a couple of them over my eyes, then relax for about ten minutes. This old folk remedy is almost as good as a facelift- it reduces the puffiness immediately! For those of you who are allergic to nightshades (tomatoes, eggplants and yes, potatoes) try a couple of tea bags dipped into water as hot as you can stand, and then applied to your eyes. The tannic acid in the tea will help calm down the puffiness in your skin.


Take great care of your skin, and you’ll look radiant- both onstage and off!




Photo: Vintage Ad for Pond's cold cream