I just received an email from a well-known dancer who is about
to do a photo session with an well-known photographer. Her email had an emergency feel to it because apparently, the
photographer instructed her to
show up for the shoot with “light make up, no eyeliner and no
glitter”.
The tone of her email was urgent and she sounded stressed to the max
about this- it was a belly dance shoot, after all! She was after my opinion
regarding his decree.
So
I answered her email right away…
after diplomatically inquiring
as to whether the photographer in question was smoking crack!
Before
I hit “send”, I re-read my
answer, and realized that I should share it with you, dear readers,
so here goes:
As
dancers, it is absolutely
necessary for us to have an exotic, compelling look- we are not going
after a fresh-faced portrait, we
are entertainers, and we need to look the part!
I’m valiantly hoping that the “no eyeliner” comment was because some people do an extremely
think black line on the bottom lide,
hoping it will look natural in the pictures…but it actually tends to look harsh.
As
for the glitter: I agree with the photographer-do not
use it during your photo shoots
unless it’s for a extreme close up.
If
you know me ( whether in real life or on social media!) then you know I'm all about the glitter... just not for photo sessions.
Why?
Glitter looks amazing in motion- such
as in any sort of live performance,
or on film or video, but in still photos, it can look downright
weird… sort of sandy and grainy,
or it can appear to be small white specks. For
photos, I only put glitter on at
the very end of the shoot and
then knock off a quick bunch of extreme close up shots.
I have a pretty specific formula I stick
to for my “generic” dance photo sessions-
dark eyes, soft looking skin and
a lighter glossy mouth. Unless I’m going after an unusual or fantasy
look, I use this formula and it
has never failed me.
Peruse these pictures – all taken at
different times, in a range of lighting situations by a variety of photographers, and you can see that
formula in action in every shot.
So here’s what else I do:
SKIN
In
still photos I use foundation
only. I always try to avoid powder, because I favor a very dewy
( hence, younger!) look. Powder is terrific for the stage, but in photos it can accumulate and actually accent creases or wrinkes- or even the small, fine barely-there lines around the eyes! And while a matte finish looks marvelous on a twenty year old with flawless skin, I prefer my own skin to look glowing and pearly… so I save the powder for live performances, where it will also keep my sweat under control!
( hence, younger!) look. Powder is terrific for the stage, but in photos it can accumulate and actually accent creases or wrinkes- or even the small, fine barely-there lines around the eyes! And while a matte finish looks marvelous on a twenty year old with flawless skin, I prefer my own skin to look glowing and pearly… so I save the powder for live performances, where it will also keep my sweat under control!
Fresh
looking, dewy skin means foundation only, no powder. I always mix a dab of MAC’s Strobe Cream into my
foundation to get a really lustrous and glowing-from-within look.
CHEEKS
I use coral or true rosy pink
blush on the apples of the cheeks only.
Using blush on the apples will give you an instant "facelift" and make you look gorgeous and healthy. If you are darker skinned, for your blush colors go with brick tones, true reds, deep mauves or even burgundy… but really try avoiding anything that looks too muddy- by that I mean too dark, or colors with gray under-tones. For blush in photo shoots, stay away from
anything pearly, because it will reflect light and look too theatrical- and
presumably you want to look pretty, not shiny
and weird, right?
Contouring
is a must for the stage and in my opinion, necessary for photos, too.
However, make sure you place the
contour color ( a soft taupe is
good for almost any skin tone) just under your natural cheek bone, and blend it
well. Again, you do not want to use a shiny or pearly color for this; a matte finish powder is best for the job because you’re creating the illusion of a shadow. Blend,
blend, blend…. you don't want those definite 1980's style lines...I’ll say it again: blend!
Use a soft white, eggshell or
beige-toned pearly
highlighter ( powder or cream, your choice) on the tops of cheekbones and up to the temples, into
the hairline. This type of highlighting is an optical illusion that will draw the planes of your cheek bones forward, and make your bone structure look
insane. It will also make your
visage look luminous, as though
natural light is hitting you in a
very flattering way.
EYES
If you’re taking dance
shots, you need to look dramatic
and stunning. Period, end of sentence! Heavily lined dark eyes- think smoky eyes
in blacks, grays or browns
with big lush faux lashes- are absolute classics for almost any type of dance you can think of…ballet, samba, jazz, hip hop, or whatever- and this super-smoldering
look is , of course, always
right-on for any sort of belly dance or burlesque photo!
I
like to go crazy with the eyeliner, it’s practically my trademark- but you
might not be into such an extreme look… let your own taste dictate! A nice look that is finished and defined without being extreme would be
to line your top lids, and on the bottom lid, just use a dark
powder shadow, blended well to look soft.
I've said this before and I'll say it again: please don't believe the stuff you hear about black eyeliner making your eyes look small!
Look at my eyes in these pictures and you will see. In real life, my eyes are very small and almond shaped. With black eyeliner that s extended from the outside corners, you can see how large my eyes look. Again, it's an illusion...and when you're wearing an incredible costume and lots of bling, your eyes need to be accented enough to match the sheer volume of your outfit!
I've said this before and I'll say it again: please don't believe the stuff you hear about black eyeliner making your eyes look small!
Look at my eyes in these pictures and you will see. In real life, my eyes are very small and almond shaped. With black eyeliner that s extended from the outside corners, you can see how large my eyes look. Again, it's an illusion...and when you're wearing an incredible costume and lots of bling, your eyes need to be accented enough to match the sheer volume of your outfit!
Use a lighter color on the brows than you would onstage. In performance, you have to accentuate
your brows and make them darker so that they’re visible under the hot lights or in a dark club, but for photos
you need a much softer look. I usually use dark brown brow powder for
photographs, whereas onstage, I
use black pencil! Redheads- be ware of using a brow color that's too red or russet- it will look strange. A light brown ought to suffice. And blonde ladies- if you're not a bootle blonde, believe me, you need brow color! Use a bare whisper of taupe for brows that are "there" but not cartoon-like.
Unless you’re going for a
period-specific look, like a
classic pin up with thicker ‘50’s style brows-think
Liz Taylor or Audrey Hepburn- or a 1920’s feel, with a pin-thin brow, follow the natural shape of your
brows and then fill them in with light, feathery strokes.
LIPS
For
pictures, personally I’m all about
having a natural lip.
Ha- bet you never thought I’d utter the word “natural” while
referring to my make up, didja?!
I have been known to rock an amazing frosty teal shade of lipstick- but that was for a character promo pictures.
I have been known to rock an amazing frosty teal shade of lipstick- but that was for a character promo pictures.
For my own "regular" promo photos, I prefer the focus to be on my eyes,
so for my lip color I go with light peaches to corals- but
not too orangey or chalky and matte. I also like pinks in
various shades or beige skin tones.
This is because in close ups and portraits, deep colors can
often make the mouth look smaller and the lips almost too thin- no matter what size they really are-which also ages your
face significantly, or merely accentuate your age!
For stage or pictures, I line my lower
lip around the outside of the
lip-line to create a plump and luxuriant effect. I put my lip color on first,
and then I use the pencil- it
looks way less harsh this way.
I use
a lot of lip gloss in photographs too, because it looks luscious and seriously yummy. On stage, it’s a no-no because it just won’t stay put and will also attract anything from your own hair to errant feathers or
sequins! But for photos?
Hell yeah!
Don’t be afraid to experiment with your
make up for photo shoots- but make sure you do an ample amount of
test-runs well before the shoot
itself.
And even if the photographer tells you not to use eyeliner...you should still make sure to give photo credit whenever you can!
Photo Credits:
First and last shots by Lapis
Second and fourth photo by Dusti Cunningham
Third photo by Celeste Hines
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ReplyDeleteThans so much!!!! I love to share! : )
ReplyDeleteI'm sooo glad that you mentioned those with light eyebrows! I feel like saying to those with really light brows and dramatic dark eyes: What's the point??? It looks like they don't have brows, therefore no expression, especially on stage! I fill mine in with powder (I just find that I have more control that way) just as you described and they look AMAZING!
ReplyDeleteLove you talent and style!
Aw, thanks so much for the nice compliments, Camille!
DeleteI try to mention specific things for all types of faces.... cause everyone needs to look great!!! Once i was teaching a make up class and a very, very fair gal was my face model... she was looking at my own eyes- and i could tell she thought i was going to replicate the look on her, she was scared! But I did her face all pretty and "stagey" but for HER and she loved it!
That was really useful, thanks! I'll remember to read these tips again before my next photo shoot! I think I'm using too much powder, but... otherwise my face have an annoying shine.
ReplyDelete